Oct. 5-Oct 19, 2022

We head to Cambodia to reset our Vietnamese visa 

Phnom Penh,  Siem Reap and Kampong Phluk Floating Village 

Phnom Penh

October 5 - 2022

It was time to leave Vietnam. We headed on the Grand Ibis Bus to the Moc Bai Border Station where we checked out of Vietnam and checked in to Cambodia.  It all went very smoothly but you had to hand over your passport to one of the bus employees and that is always anxiety inducing. However, they gave it back as soon as we were back on the bus in Cambodia. 

The driver dropped us off downtown Phnom Penh, there was a bit of a miscommunication and he did not drop us close to the hotel, so we walked over to the HM Grand Central Hotel.  It is quite a nice hotel, with a bar and pool on the rooftop and a happy hour every night which we enjoyed this evening.

We had our first Cambodian meal this evening which was a small place just around the corner from our hotel.

Phnom Penh

Got organized with getting a Cambodian sim card,  some money. Cambodia uses the American dollar so not that cheap here for us.   

We walked over to the Vietnamese embassy and spent about 3 hours and  spent $160 usd (plus $500 for the 1st month....) And will still need to buy another visa as boat won't be done by December 5th. Totally not worth the hassle and the extra expense as a 30 day e-visa is $25... I wouldn't recommend this to other owners.  Just don't bother with the business visa.

As we were walking along the sidewalk, our legs very sore from our run down 32 flights of the stairs a few days back,  trying to avoid bumps, dips and garbage cans, Chris slipped his foot and very badly sprained his ankle. 

We had to go back home and luckily the hotel has a spa on the roof where there is 4 hot tubs all different temperatures so he was able to soak his foot in cold water and I decided to try to find a hair dresser to try some blonde highlights.

Phnom Penh

Couldn't really spend any time in Phnom Penh and not visit the horrific history monuments that are in the city. 

We hopped in a tuk tuk and headed over to the 

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum former “Security Office S-21” which is the memorial site of the S-21 interrogation and detention center of the Khmer Rouge regime. It preserves a tragic period in history with the aim to encourage visitors to be messengers of peace.

The core of S-21 prison was established in two adjacent former schools, built in the 1960s. Although the prison and its related administrative and support department were spread over a significant section of the city area (today known as BKK III), the TSGM site today occupies only the core of the former prison, the main site where the prisoners were brought, photographed, detained, many tortured, interrogated and executed or taken away to be killed at Choeung Ek. 


Current research estimates that 18.063 men, women and children were detained in S-21. Considering that many more houses in the neighborhood were part of the prison complex (work and accommodation places for the guards and other staff, kitchen, interrogation and torture houses, offices etc.), the museum took the initiative to seek limitation of nearby construction activities. 

https://www.killingfieldsmuseum.com/s21-victims.html


The next part of our history lesson was to head out of town about 17 kilometres south of Phnom Penh to the Killing Fields or Choeung Ek Genocide Center.

Lasting for four years (between 1975 and 1979), the Cambodian Genocide was an explosion of mass violence that saw between 1.5 and 3 million people killed at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, a communist political group. The Khmer Rouge had taken power in the country following the Cambodian Civil War. During their brutal four-year rule, the Khmer Rouge was responsible for the deaths of nearly a quarter of Cambodians.


The Cambodian Genocide was the result of a social engineering project by the Khmer Rouge, attempting to create a classless agrarian society. The regime would ultimately collapse when the neighboring Vietnam invaded, establishing an occupation that would last more than a decade.  


Once the Khmer Rouge took power, they instituted a radical reorganization of Cambodian society. This meant the forced removal of city dwellers into the countryside, where they would be forced to work as farmers, digging canals and tending to crops. Gross mismanagement of the country’s economy led to shortages of food and medicine, and untold numbers of people succumbed to disease and starvation. Families were also split up. The Khmer Rouge created labor brigades, assigning groups depending on age and gender. This policy resulted in hundreds of thousands of Cambodians starving to death.


Religious and ethnic minorities faced particular persecution. Christian and Buddhist groups were targeted for repression but it was the Cham Muslim group that was most affected by the genocide. As many as 500,000 people, or 70% of the total Cham population, were exterminated. Because the Khmer Rouge placed a heavy emphasis on the rural peasant population, anyone considered an intellectual was targeted for special treatment. This meant teachers, lawyers, doctors, and clergy were the targets of the regime. Even people wearing glasses were the target of Pol Pot’s reign of terror.

There is difficulty establishing a definitive number of victims of the Cambodian Genocide. The Cambodians kept methodical records of prisoners and executions. However, because Cambodia’s enemy, Vietnam, invaded and released the records, there is speculation they could have been exaggerated. In addition, estimating the total number of people who starved is difficult. Estimates range from 1.5 to 3 million people having died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, with the consensus being approximately 2 million.

Him Huy, who took the prisoners to be killed at Choeung Ek recalled,”They were ordered to kneel down at the edge of the hole. Their hands were tied behind them. They were beaten on the neck with an iron ox-cart axle, sometimes with one blow, sometimes with two... ”

Choeung Ek is the site of a former orchard and mass graves of victims of the Khmer Rouge.

Phnom Penh

We had to extend our stay in Phnom Penh as Chris's foot is healing slowly, it is still massivley swollen and he is having trouble walking.


We are still spending many hours a day emailing and working on the boat.  Chris is trying to work with Jefa to get the details worked out as Terry said he couldn't ever get a hold of them however, they replied to Chris in 24 hours.  There was some confusion on what we had asked for and what they thought we had wanted. 


Still trying to get the Builders Certificate and tonnage certificate form Terry for the Canadian boat registration.


Did some touring around Phnom Penh today.


Wat Phnom Daun Penh


Wat Phnom is a Buddhist temple in Doun Penh, Phnom Penh. It is a pagoda, that symbolizes the name of Phnom Penh, and a historical site that is part of the Khmer national identity. Wat Phnom has a total height of 46 meters.


Wat Ounalom Monastery


This wat is the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. It was founded in 1443 and comprises 44 structures. The wat received a battering during the Pol Pot era, but today it has come back to life. The head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lives here, along with a large number of monks.


On the 2nd floor of the main building, to the left of the dais, is a statue of Huot Tat, fourth patriarch of Cambodian Buddhism, who was killed by Pol Pot. The statue, made in 1971 when the patriarch was 80 years old, was thrown in the Mekong by the Khmer Rouge to show that Buddhism was no longer the driving force in Cambodia. It was retrieved after 1979. To the right of the dais is a statue of a former patriarch of the Thummayuth sect, to which the royal family belongs.


In the evening we took a Sunset Cruise down the Tonla Sap River until where it meets the Mekong River.


Next stop was at the Phnom Penh Night Market where we met this very friendly local couple who were on the boat with us. They were on a first or second date, the man waved us over to sit with them as it was pretty crowded, then he bought us our dinner!! 


There is a few streets that our quite seedy. We ended up at Harry's Phnom Penh, an ex pat hangout where we met some very interesting characters!

Phnom Penh

We walked over to the National Museum of Cambodia.


The National Museum of Cambodia is home to the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture: a millennium’s worth and more of masterful Khmer design. It's housed in a graceful terracotta structure of traditional design (built from 1917 to 1920) with an inviting courtyard garden, just north of the Royal Palace.


One of the first significant sculptures to greet visitors is a large fragment – including the relatively intact head, shoulders and two arms – of an immense bronze reclining Vishnu statue, which was recovered from the Western Mebon temple near Angkor Wat in 1936. Continue into the southern pavilion, where the pre-Angkorian collection begins, illustrating the journey from the human form of Indian sculpture to the more divine form of Khmer sculpture from the 5th to 8th centuries. Highlights include an imposing, eight-armed Vishnu statue from the 6th century, found at Phnom Da, and a staring Harihara, combining the attributes of Shiva and Vishnu, from Prasat Andet in Kompong Thom Province. The Angkor collection includes several striking statues of Shiva from the 9th, 10th and 11th centuries; a giant pair of wrestling monkeys (Koh Ker, 10th century); a beautiful 12th-century stele (stone) from Oddar Meanchey Province inscribed with scenes from the life of Shiva; and the sublime statue of a seated Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219), his head bowed slightly in a meditative pose (Angkor Thom, late 12th century).


The museum also contains displays of pottery and bronzes dating from the pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla (4th to 9th centuries), the Indravarman period (9th and 10th centuries) and the classical Angkorian period (10th to 14th centuries), as well as more recent works, such as a beautiful wooden royal barge.


Photos were not allowed but I just took a few inside. 


Went to 4P's Pizza for dinner.  Thought we would try their local creation called Pizza Num Banh Chok.

Num banh chok is a Cambodian dish that is typically served for breakfast or consumed as an afternoon snack.


Inspired by its unique taste and traditional process, we created Pizza Num Banh Chok with the desire to balance the combination between the Cambodia traditional ingredients and Pizza 4P’s special recipes with our House-made Cheese.


In this recipe, instead of rice noodle, we use Pizza and cheese, also apply yellow kroeung, prahok, freshwater fish, coconut milk, Cambodia Herb, Water Hyacinth following. 

It was very interesting.  We ate it all.

Siem Reap

The hotel booked us a VIP bus to get to Siem Reap.  Boy, if this was the VIP bus I don't know what the regular bus would have looked like. It was the most uncomfortable ride ever.  I had to put my feet on the bus's battery for the whole way.  The driver stopped for gas as soon as we got in.  Could he not have done that before we got in? 

We were here with the kids in 2012 and boy I do not remember it looking like this.  There has been progress in this town.   Glad we made it after that ride.

Siem Reap

We organized our tuk tuk driver through our hotel and chose the 3 day tour.   Today would be our Day 1.  It's a big day. We plan to see: Ankar Wat, Ankor Thom, Bayon Temple, Elephant and Leper King terraces, Baphuon and Phimeanakas, for the sunset.


We found an english speaking tour guide at entrance and decided it might be valuable to hire him for the tour.


Angkor Wat is a Hindu-Buddhist temple complex in Cambodia, located on a site measuring 162.6 hectares. It resides within the ancient Khmer capital city of Angkor. 

The Guinness World Records considers it as the largest religious structure in the world.  Angkor is one of the most important archaeological sites in South-East Asia. 

Stretching over some 400 km2, including forested area, Angkor Archaeological Park contains the magnificent remains of the different capitals of the Khmer Empire, from the 9th to the 15th century. They include the famous Temple of Angkor Wat and, at Angkor Thom, the Bayon Temple with its countless sculptural decorations. UNESCO has set up a wide-ranging programme to safeguard this symbolic site and its surroundings.


Angkor Thom was built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII. Angkor Thom overlaps part of the previous capital city of the Khmer Empire was called Yasodharapura. King Jayavarman VII extended some of the previous structures and built some new temples.  The last known structure to have been build inside Angkor Thom was Mangalartha which is located about 300m away from the Victory Gate. Although built during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, it’s unknown exactly when it was completed. The small temple was dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu God, in the year 1295.


Angkor Thom was sacked by the invading Ayutthaya Kingdom from Siam (nowadays Thailand) in the late 14th century and the city was abandoned sometime after this date.


It’s not known exactly when it was abandoned, but it was before 1609 when a western visitor documented and wrote about a great uninhabited city.


The name Angkor Thom was first used in the 16th century. Before this time, the Khmer people would simply use the name Yashodharapura as they didn’t have any clear distinction between the old and new capital cities.


The city covers an area of 9 square kilometres with 4 walls 3km in length. Each wall faces a cardinal point and there is a moat surrounding the entire city. The Bayon temple sits directly in the centre of Angkor Thom.


Each wall has an entrance gate with the east wall having an extra entrance called the Victory Gate.


To gain access to Angkor Thom, a causeway over the moat leads to the gates. Each causeway is flanked by 54 statues on each side with gods on the left and demons on the right. Each causeway has 108 statues, with a total of 5 causeways.


The gods on the left-side have peaceful and happy expressions whereas the demons on the right look like they are grimacing. Many of these statues are original, but some have been removed and stored for safe-keeping by the Angkor National Museum. Therefore, some of the statues you will see are replicas.


At the beginning of the causeway, there is a nine-headed serpent on each side whose body runs the length of the causeway. Each statue is holding the serpents body to form a barrier over the edge of the bridge.


As you reach the gates, large faces look out to the four cardinal points. The entrances are some of the most photographed places in the Angkor Park.


Bayon Temple - At the heart of Angkor Thom is the 12th-century Bayon, the mesmerising, if slightly mind-bending, state temple of Jayavarman VII. It epitomises the creative genius and inflated ego of Cambodia’s most celebrated king. Its 54 Gothic towers are decorated with 216 gargantuan smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara, and it is adorned with 1.2km of extraordinary bas-reliefs incorporating more than 11,000 figures.  Unique, even among its cherished contemporaries, the architectural audacity was a definitive political statement about the change from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism. Known as the 'face temple' thanks to its iconic visages, these huge heads glare down from every angle, exuding power and control with a hint of humanity. This was precisely the blend required to hold sway over such a vast empire, ensuring the disparate and far-flung population yielded to Jayavarman VII's magnanimous will. As you walk around, a dozen or more of the heads are visible at any one time, full face or in profile, sometimes level with your eyes, sometimes staring down from on high.


Unlike Angkor Wat, which looks impressive from all angles, Bayon looks rather like a glorified pile of rubble from a distance. It’s only when you enter the temple and make your way up to the third level that its magic becomes apparent.


Some say that the Khmer empire was divided into 54 provinces at the time of Bayon’s construction, hence the 54 pairs of all-seeing eyes keeping watch on the kingdom’s outlying subjects.


The famous carvings on the outer wall of the first level depict vivid scenes of everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia. The bas-reliefs on the second level do not have the epic proportions of those on the first level and tend to be fragmented. The reliefs described are those on the first level. The sequence assumes that you enter the Bayon from the east and view the reliefs in a clockwise direction from just south of the east gate you'll encounter your first bas-relief, Chams on the Run, a three-level panorama.


Moving on, the first panel north of the southeastern corner shows Hindus praying to a linga (phallic symbol). This image was probably originally a Buddha, later modified by a Hindu king.


The Naval Battle panel has some of the best-carved reliefs. The scenes depict a naval battle between the Khmers and the Chams.


In the Chams Vanquished, scenes from daily life are featured while the battle between the Khmers and the Chams takes place on the shore of Tonlé Sap lake, where the Chams are soundly thrashed.


The most western relief of the south gallery, depicting a Military Procession, is unfinished, as is the panel showing elephants being led down from the mountains.


The next panel depicts scenes that some scholars maintain is a Civil War.


Just north of the Civil War panel, the fighting continues on a smaller scale in the All-Seeing King.


The next panel depicts a procession that includes the king (carrying a bow). Presumably it is a Victory Parade.


At the western corner of the northern wall is a Khmer circus. 


In A Land of Plenty, two rivers – one next to the doorpost and the other a few metres to the right – are teeming with fish.


On the lowest level of the unfinished three-tiered Chams Defeat, the Cham armies are being defeated and expelled from the Khmer kingdom.


The Sacking of Angkor shows the war of 1177, when the Khmers were defeated by the Chams, and Angkor was pillaged. 


The next panel, the Chams Enter Angkor, depicts a meeting of the Khmer and Cham armies.


Elephant and Leper King terraces

The terrace is named for the sculptures in high relief of elephants and their mahouts. At several sections large elephant heads protrude out from the wall, their very long trunks forming pillars extending to the ground, similar to those of the gates of Angkor Thom.


Baphuon

Some have called Baphuon the 'world's largest jigsaw puzzle'. Before the civil war the Baphuon was painstakingly taken apart piece by piece by a team of archaeologists, but their meticulous records were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge regime, leaving experts with 300,000 stones to put back into place. After years of excruciating research, this temple has been partially restored. In the 16th century, the retaining wall on the western side of the second level was fashioned into a 60m reclining Buddha. 


Phimeanakas-Phimeanakas (Khmer: ប្រាសាទភិមានអាកាស) is another of the grand pyramid-based state-temples that was the common archetype of the 8-11th century. Located inside the ancient Royal Palace of Angkor Thom, it is a grand three-tiered pyramid with a rectangular base whose corners are mounted with stone elephants and staircases flanked by lions which lead up to a narrow galleried wall with small towers at the axis enclosing a single cruciform-shaped sanctuary.


There was lots of people at this last one to see the sunset. 


https://www.lonelyplanet.com/cambodia/angkor-thom/attractions/bayon/a/poi-sig/500534/1318768


Prasat Bakong

We took an organized tour today to Kampong Phluk Floating village and the floating forest.  Got on a big bus and headed out of town. 


Kompong Phluk is a floating village located in the middle of Cambodia‘s largest lake, Tonle Sap. The term “floating” is a bit misleading: the houses are actually built on very tall stilts around 8 meters high. During the rainy season, the lake rises and covers the stilts, giving the illusion that the homes are floating in the water. We learned that these types of villages are built in the middle of the lake to make it easier for fishermen and rice farmers to gather during harvest season.


The homes here are whimsical structures right out of a Miyazaki movie, with their thin legs, leaning pillars and tatched walls. From afar, they look almost like living things, camouflaging into the trees of the mangrove forest that surround them.


The village was not the only attraction however. Floating villages are oftentimes – if not all the time – located near mangrove forests. As part of the tour, we got onto a row boat that took us through the slender trunks of the largest flooded forest in Siem Reap. The ride was beautiful and serene, and it was like visiting another world.


Life moves slowly here, and the two ways to make a living seemed to be limited to fishing and ferrying tourists around. 


Chris of course wanted to try paddling the boat, he asked the lady and she obliged him.


We stopped at a restaurant, but they took so long to get peoples food and drinks that the sun was setting before we ended up leaving, then it was this huge rush to leave to get back on the bus.


Once we arrived back into town, we found out that Doug and Hull #6 had left the boatyard on their way to Australia.  Terry had promised us that we would be able to get on the boat and go for a test sail.  I feel like he snuck them off while he knew we were out of Vietnam.  Nice. 

Siem Reap

Day 2 of our tour of Ankor Wat --Pre Rup-East Mebon-Ta Som-Neak Pean-Preah Khan-North Gate


Our tuk tuk driver pick us up early and after our hotel breakfast we took off back to Ankor Wat.


1st stop - Pre Rup


Pre Rup

Pre Rup was built as the state temple for King Rajendravarman in the late 10th century in either 961 or 962 AD. It was built only 9 years after East Mebon which is exactly 1.3km north.


It’s not known exactly what the temple was used for, but the modern name “Pre Rup” suggests that it was used for funerals. French historian, Philippe Stern, thought that Pre Rup stood at the centre of a new city built by King Rajendravarman. However, this also hasn’t been confirmed.


Pre Rup is historically significant because it was the second temple built after the Khmer capital city was moved to Angkor Thom after a period of turbulent politics. The capital was moved back from Koh Ker and then again to Angkor Thom where it remained until the end of the Khmer empire.


Like most other temples in the area, it’s thought that Pre Rup was abandoned at some point in the 16th century.


East Mebon


The lovely temple of Mebon, a pyramid of receding terraces on which are placed many detached edifices, the most effective being the five towers which crown the top Could any conception be lovelier, a vast expanse of sky-tinted water as wetting for a perfectly ordered temple.

Its temple-mountain form is topped off by a quintet of towers. The elaborate brick shrines are dotted with neatly arranged holes, which attached the original plasterwork. The base of the temple is guarded at its corners by perfectly carved stone figures of elephants.


The Eastern Mebon is flanked by earthen ramps, a clue that this temple was never finished and a good visual guide to how the temples were constructed.


Ta Som Temple


Although it is one of the smaller temple sites in the Angkor Archeological Park, it is definitely worth a look.

Very little restoration work has been done on Ta Som. These sites remain in a state of semi-ruin with the trees and other native vegetation allowed to grow over and through the walls of the temple. One of the most prominent features of the site is the huge strangler fig tree which has engulfed the eastern gopura or gate. Ta Som also features towers with serene faces on the outer enclosure of this Bayon-style temple. This charming site has many unique photo opportunities you won’t want to miss.


Ta Som was built during the late 12th century by the great King Javayarman VII. Little is known about the purpose of this temple, but it may have been dedicated to the King’s father or one of his teachers. Ta Som was swallowed up by the jungle until the 1930’s, when it was cleared out enough for visitors to access the site, but left in its mostly unrestored state. This Bayon-style temple is surrounded by a moat and three separate enclosures constructed of laterite, which is a rusty-red colored rock common to tropical climates. The first or inner enclosure features four corner towers and four gopuras, and face-towers with four faces looking out in each of the cardinal directions. The second and third enclosures are separated by the moat. These outer enclosures mirror each other as they both feature two gopuras, on the east and west side.


Neak Pean


The temple was originally designed as a hospital, it was thought bathing in the pools here would cure disease. Each of the four pools are said to represent wind, fire, water and earth.


The temple is in the middle of a baray where you can walk along the wooden walkway on top of the man-made lake.  They are connected to a central pool (a replica of Lake Anavatapta in the Himalayas) by a stone channel. Each of these channels are looked over by an Elephant, Bull, Horse, and Lion – one of the Four Great Animals. Each channel represents the head of one of the great animals except for the east which is a human head instead of a bull.


When the temple was first built, the sculptures of the four heads sat on the floor of the lake. They can still be seen in the dry season when the water is low, but are completely covered in the rainy season.


Preah Khan

The Preah Khan temple complex situated at the northern edge of the Angkor Archaeological Park is one of the most significant buildings erected during the ancient Khmer empire. Dedicated by the great king Jayavarman VII to his father in 1191, Preah Khan serves today as an outstanding example of a large linear temple complex in a dense jungle setting. Rectangular in shape and occupying 138 acres, Preah Khan’s boundaries are defined by a protective moat and fortified walls adorned by monumental carved stone garudas—eagle-like divine beings. The temple complex includes entryways, towers, ceremonial spaces, courtyards, shrines, and a variety of connecting corridors. Additional special features of Preah Khan include its two-story pavilion, the once-bronze-plated sanctum sanctorum, and its Hall of Dancers.


North Gate

We left for the date out of the North Gate. The site features a grand causeway crossing the moat featuring a Naga balustrade with 54 demons (Asura) on one side and 54 gods (Devas) on the other, both pulling on a giant Naga serpent leading to the grand entrance gate.

Siem Reap

We heard from Terry today that our engines should be in Saigon by 31st of October.  Your mast, sails and bulk fitout are still in South Africa  as per copies of correspondence below with strikes at the sea port,  I am unsure on when they will be shipped.  As soon as we can get a date now for container leaving South Africa,  we can sort a commissioning date.


As far as we knew our mast and container were already at the boatyard, now we found out it is still in South Africa and there is a shipping strike at the port.


Did a walk today 

Stopped at the Wat Preah Prom Rath


Wat Preah Prom Rath (Khmer: វត្ត​ព្រះព្រហ្មរតន៍) is located in the central area near to Pub Street and the Old Market. It is a functioning Buddhist monastery featuring a typical Khmer-style pagoda, a courtyard with statues depicting different Buddhist beliefs, and a hall surrounded by hand-painted picture walls containing a giant statue of seated Buddha and a reclining Buddha.


The site reportedly has a history dating back to the turn of the 16th century and the fable of a Buddhist monk, Preah Ang Chong Han Hoy, and an adventure on the local rivers where quite miraculously, the front half of a heavily damaged wooden boat brought him home safely. To celebrate this miracle, the monks carved the reclining Buddha we see inside the pagoda today.


Some online reports also attribute the creation of the pagoda to king Ang Chan (assuming it to be Ang Chan II) via a land donation made by a local who also gives the site its name (via Tnaot.com). Many of the buildings, such as the Buddhist schools date back to the 1940s and 50s, while two older traditional wooden buildings have recently been restored by APSARA.


Wat Preah An Kau Saa

Walked around this temple for a bit, there were people in the temple and it seemed like an event was going on so we kept going onto the APOPO - Humanitarian Demining.


On the way we saw the smallest of kittens just about to be eaten by a couple of dogs or get run over by a car in the middle of the road. So I grabbed it and picked it up quickly. My heart broke right there. We tried to find it some food but there were no stores around.  We finally let it go and it ran into a house. I'm really hoping that is where it is from and it will be looked after.  I love this kitten and wanted to take it back to the hotel with me.


Visiting the Apopo Centre got our minds off of the kitten. This is an extraordinary organization.

Through clicker/reward training, the mine detection rats (MDR) are taught to scratch the earth above a landmine. They hear a 'click' and receive a snack. Unlike metal detectors, the rats ignore scrap metal and only sniff out explosive scent making them fast and efficent landmine detectors.


A landmine is an explosive device that is buried or placed hidden on the ground. An antipersonnel landmine is designed to specifically target people. They are triggered by a variety of methods, most commonly pressure, either direct or by a wire, and are referred to as being “victim activated” (not remote controlled).


60 countries are contaminated by landmines and other explosive remnants of war. Because landmines are victim-activated they kill indiscriminately. In 2021 landmines and explosive remnants of war caused at least 5,544 casualties, of which 75% were civilians and 50% children. The threat of landmines also hampers economic recovery and development in war damaged areas. Villages are cut off from basic necessities such as water supplies and essential travel routes, and are prevented from using fertile land for the cultivation of crops, grazing livestock or development. 


They also encounter other explosive materials such as unexploded artillery shells, hand grenades, mortars, rockets or airdropped bombs and ammunition. These are referred to as ‘Explosive Remnants of War’ (ERW’s) and include ‘Unexploded Ordnance’ (UXO) and ‘Abandoned Explosive Ordnance’ (AXO). One common form of ERW in SE Asia is the cluster bomb – sub-munitions dropped from aircraft that have failed to detonate on impact.


The rats are also trained to sniff out Tuberculosis

APOPO carries out continued research into TB detection rats using samples from partner clinics. Rat-suspect samples are confirmed using WHO-endorsed methods and we notify the clinics of any newly identified positives. This means more TB-positive people, who were initially missed by their clinics, can receive life-saving treatment and stop the spread of tuberculosis to their family and friends.


The African giant pouched rats, nicknamed HeroRATs, are helping to find landmines and detecting tuberculosis as part of an integrated approach. When deployed alongside standard methods, they speed up the process, getting people’s lives back on track as fast as possible.


We were very impressed and ended up adopting a rat called Ronin at the end of our tour.

Siem Reap

Walked over to Wat Reach Bo Pagoda.

This 18th century temple is one of the oldest known Buddhist temples in Siem Reap. Inside the main temple, there are paintings which date back from the 19th century and are still in very good condition today.

Somehow we missed going to look at the frescos.

Then back to the hotel to hang by the pool for a litte bit.

Siem Reap

This is our last day in Cambodia and it was supposed to be our Day 3 of touring Ankor Wat however, Chris got food poisining this morning after breakfast at the hotel and was not able to move all day. So I headed out with our tuk tuk driver by myself as it was already pre organized.


Ta Prohm


The so-called 'Tomb Raider Temple', Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. Undoubtedly the most atmospheric ruin at Angkor, Ta Prohm should be high on the hit list of every visitor. Its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle, and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared when European explorers first stumbled upon them.


Well, that’s the theory, but in fact the jungle is pegged back and only the largest trees are left in place, making it manicured rather than raw like Beng Mealea. Still, a visit to Ta Prohm is a unique, other-worldly experience. There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humanity to slowly destroy. If Angkor Wat is testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome fecundity and power of the jungle.


Built from 1186 and originally known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in the Angkor region where an inscription provides information about the temple’s dependents and inhabitants. Almost 80,000 people were required to maintain or attend at the temple, among them more than 2700 officials and 615 dancers.


Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, closed courtyards and narrow corridors. Many of the corridors are impassable, clogged with jumbled piles of delicately carved stone blocks dislodged by the roots of long-decayed trees. Bas-reliefs on bulging walls are carpeted with lichen, moss and creeping plants, and shrubs sprout from the roofs of monumental porches. Trees, hundreds of years old, tower overhead, their leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a greenish pall over the whole scene.


The most popular of the many strangulating root formations is the one on the inside of the easternmost gopura (entrance pavilion) of the central enclosure, nicknamed the Crocodile Tree. One of the most famous spots in Ta Prohm is the so-called Tomb Raider tree, where Angelina Jolie’s Lara Croft picked a jasmine flower before falling through the earth into…Pinewood Studios.


It used to be possible to climb onto the damaged galleries, but this is now prohibited, to protect both temple and visitor. Many of these precariously balanced stones weigh a tonne or more and would do some serious damage if they came down. Ta Prohm is currently under stabilisation and restoration by an Indian team of archaeologists working with their Cambodian counterparts.


Prasat Ta Keo

The modern name Ta Keo, pronounced "Takaeoo", means "tower of crystal". In contemporary inscriptions it is mentioned as Hemagiri or Hemasringagiri, meaning "mountain with golden peaks".


Ta Keo was the state temple of Jayavarman V (968-1001). He began building it about 975, when he became adult and started to rule independently after a period of government by other court officials. Like former state temples (Bakong in Roluos, Bakheng in Angkor, Prasat Prang at Prasat Thom in Koh Ker, and Pre Rup in Angkor), it was dedicated to Shiva and enshrined a Lingam as symbol of divine and royal power and was built as a temple-mountain with Prasat Towers on top of a step pyramid.


Spean Thmor

is an ancient sandstone bridge located west of Ta Keo. It was built on the former path of the Siem Reap River between Angkor Thom and the Eastern Baray and it was rebuilt/constructed sometime between the 13-17th century, officially recorded as the 17th c, as it includes many reused sandstone blocks from a prior temple. Many of the blocks feature carvings that can be attributed to the style of the Bayon era (12-13th c).


Today, the water appears to divert around the bridge in u shape and the water’s edge below the bridge, when the water is low enough, you’ll notice sandstone blocks forming an embankment turning the water away from the bridge. It’s unknown to me if that was a diversion made in the French era or it was the natural course of the river and the bridge that we see handled seasonal water peaks (also meaning the eastern end of the bridge must have been longer than we see today).


Nearby is the Ta Keo Nursery which features a beautiful large waterwheel set in the river. 


Thommason

Thommason is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed by UNESCO in 1992 titled Angkor. The temple is dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu.


Thommanon is a single-towered temple with an east-facing central sanctuary, crowned by a prasat, or tower. Access from the east is via a gopura, followed by a mandapa, or antechamber, before arriving at the central sanctuary.


The temple's carvings are very well preserved and the aged sandstone provides a distinct contrast to the surrounding jungle. The architectural style of its tower is akin to the Angkor Wat temple and the Chau Say Tevoda in its vicinity.


The staff at the Primefold Hotel in Siem Reap took very good care of Chris while I was gone, bringing him tea and checking in on him.  They are the sweetest people, Chris couldn't bring himself to tell them that it was from their cold egg that morning that got him sick!


Click on the name "Cambodia" down below to see the trip.

Siem Reap to DaNang, Vietnam

October 19, 2022 to November 5, 2022

Said good bye to our good friends at the Primefold Hotel, honestly the sweetest bunch of people we have ever met.  They even gave us a gift of a traditional Cambodian scarf, and they all came out to wave us goodbye as our taxi took us to the Siem Reap International Airport.


Arrived at the DaNang International Airport, a very nice way to enter Vietnam as opposed to the airport in Saigon where it is very busy and chaotic.


Cabbed to our hotel which is right across from the ocean and waterfront.  Lovely!!  


Did a quick walk around the neighbourhood, lots of seafood restaurants! 

Đà Nẵng

Just spent the day walking along the waterfront.  There was a monsoon flood here very recently which caused significant flooding.  They are in the process of cleaning it all up.

Vietnam celebrates its National Women's Day on October 20th. It's among several occasions on which the society shows their love and respect to the women; it could be their mothers, sisters, aunts or just their friends.

I was gifted a pair of socks from the waitress at the coffee shop. So Nice!

Đà Nẵng

Visited the Marble Mountains, we were here in 2012 with the kids we realized. 


Marble Mountains is a group of five limestone peaks situated seven kilometres from downtown Da Nang. The five karsts (called Ngu Hanh Son in Vietnamese) are named after the five elements: Kim (metal), Thuỷ (water), Mộc (wood), Hoả (fire) and Thổ (earth). Over centuries, Marble Mountains has held special significance for the people of Central Vietnam. The ancient Cham revered the karsts as a spiritual site, and Vietnamese emperors from Hue and legendary generals passing through paid visits to the peaks, adding to their store of legends. 


Today Marble Mountains is home to a network of caves, tunnels, towers, and pagodas built by Mahayana Buddhists and the Nguyen Dynasty Kings. The structures and shrines blend harmoniously with nature: Vine tendrils drip from above, frangipani and poinciana trees drop their blossoms on the stone paths, and the pagodas’ ornate roofs sparkle in the tropical sun. It’s a setting that easily captures the imagination.


There are half a dozen large caves hidden away in the Marble Mountains, and many other small ones that are rarely visited. Most of the caves are cool inside, with the jungle plants and mossy walls creating an exotic atmosphere found nowhere else. All the caves in Marble Mountains have unique features, and some have fascinating stories of being discovered and used as hideaways over the centuries. 


Huyen Khong is the largest of the caves, and a must-visit for Instagrammers. The collapsed ceiling allows shafts of light to pierce the dark cavern, creating dramatic spotlights inside. Huyen Khong was once used as a secret base and later a field hospital for Vietnamese revolutionaries. Its jaw-dropping size seems unlikely from the entrance, but is large enough to house a massive stone Buddha and two shrines. One of the shrines is dedicated to the god and goddess of match-making, and is a popular spot for couples and singles to worship. 


On Water Mountain, Hoa Nghiem Cave is watched over by a beautiful 400-year-old stone statue of Lady Buddha’ and on Metal Mountain, Tang Chon Cave is worth a wander for the marble statues of chess players and mandarins placed inside the cave’s warrens. Set aside time to explore a few of the caves and find the one you like most.


One of the best parts of touring Marble Mountain is seeing the striking pagodas that claim this elevated perch. Linh Ung Pagoda announces itself with an amazingly detailed archway facing the sweep of Non Nuoc Beach. Stop here for photos before wandering around the courtyard to admire the small lotus ponds, bonsai plants and tilework of the main structure. Nguyen Emperor Gia Long first ordered the pagoda built in 1825, and it bears many of the same motifs found in the UNESCO-listed tombs in Hue. A short walk away you’ll reach Xa Loi Tower. This 28-metre structure houses 200 statues of Buddha, and offers breathtaking views of the landscape below.


Across on Water Mountain, you’ll find Tam Thai Pagoda. This tidy pagoda, dedicated to the bodhisattva Phat Di Lac, has its own charming courtyard, and was rebuilt by the Nguyen Dynasty King Ming Mang more than 400 years ago, after falling into disrepair. 


The ladies at the bottom of the mountain who run the shops are very ruthless, if you don't want to buy anything you really must be assertive and just walk away as quickly as possible, if you do want to buy something to support them, then negotiate as best you can, as they are sharks!!


After our walk around, we stopped at the bottom for a drink, and decided to call a Grab to drive us back, the guy  lying in the hammock next to us phone rang. Pretty funny.


We checked out the Shamrock rish Pub in the evneing for some live music.

Đà Nẵng

The buffet breakfast at the hotel is insane, there is so much food, but if there are not alot of people they just bring you food and they are not scimpy!


Visited the Dragon Bridge and the Son Tra Night Market Night Market today.


The famous Dragon Bridge is located on the beautiful Han River of Da Nang. Aside from astonishing architecture, this bridge is also well known for its exciting water and fire performances.


Dragon Bridge holds a spectacular position in the vibrant city of Da Nang.  This iconic bridge gracefully spans across the mighty Han River connecting the eastern and western banks and serving as a vital link between two bustling thoroughfares: Nguyen Van Linh Street on one side and Bach Dang Street on the other. 


The construction of the Dragon Bridge in Da Nang, Vietnam, was an ambitious and impressive feat that commenced in July 2009 and concluded in March 2013. The bridge's main span, a significant milestone in the project, was completed on October 26, 2012, showcasing the engineering prowess behind this magnificent structure. Symbolizing the Liberation of Da Nang during the Second Indochina War, the bridge's opening to traffic was purposefully scheduled on March 29, 2013, to coincide with the 38th anniversary of the city's capture by North Vietnamese forces. This momentous occasion not only marked the fruition of a remarkable infrastructure endeavor but also celebrated the resilient spirit and historical significance of Da Nang.


The Dragon Bridge of Da Nang, Vietnam is the world's largest dragon-shaped steel bridge. With an installation cost of $85 million, it has 6 lanes and 666 meters of undulating steel shaped into a Ly-Dynasty dragon figure - the symbol of prosperity in Vietnamese culture. This gorgeous one-of-a-kind metal dragon also “breathes” fire and water weekly. The deliberate integration of lighting technology, with more than 2,500 LED lights, exquisitely shows the dragon's body and its vivid fire-breathing head.


Dragon Bridge Da Nang has attracted worldwide attention as a shining example for innovation in architecture. Its unusual arch support system has gained widespread regard in the designing industry and global media.


On every Saturday, Sunday and major holiday such as Vietnamese Tet, the Dragon Bridge fire show would take place at 9 p.m.


The initial presentation of dragon bridge Da Nang fire show features an enthralling 2-minute fire-breathing spectacle, executed in two segments with a remarkable display of fire-breathing occurring nine times. Following this, the water spraying performance promptly follows, lasting for an impressive duration of 3 minutes and comprising three distinct sequences, each featuring a single instance of water spraying. Observers are guaranteed to be captivated by the mesmerizing combination of radiant lights, synchronized with the breathtaking fire and water emanating from the dragon's mouth, rendering it a truly awe-inspiring attraction that stands as an extraordinary focal point within the enchanting city of Danang.


Son Tra Night Market

The market space is open, airy and filled with the scent of flowers. Green trees are planted along the two entrances to the market, which creates a feeling of coolness.  There are 4 different sections: food, beer, seafood, and shopping.  We also got a nice foot massage.

Hội An

Rented a scooter, and drove to Hoi An.


Hoi An Ancient Town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that have combined to produce this unique heritage site.


The town reflects a fusion of indigenous and foreign cultures (principally Chinese and Japanese with later European influences) that combined to produce this unique survival. 


The town comprises a well-preserved complex of 1,107 timber frame buildings, with brick or wooden walls, which include architectural monuments, commercial and domestic vernacular structures, notably an open market and a ferry quay, and religious buildings such as pagodas and family cult houses. The houses are tiled and the wooden components are carved with traditional motifs.  They are arranged side-by-side in tight, unbroken rows along narrow pedestrian streets. There is also the fine wooden Japanese bridge, with a pagoda on it, dating from the 18th century. The original street plan, which developed as the town became a port, remains. It comprises a grid of streets with one axis parallel to the river and the other axis of streets and alleys set at right angles to it. Typically, the buildings front the streets for convenient customer access while the backs of the buildings open to the river allowing easy loading and off-loading of goods from boats.


The Japanese Bridge in Hoi An is an iconic symbol of Hoi An Ancient Town, known as Cau Pagoda (Chùa Cầu), was built in the 17th century with Japanese businessmen’s assistance. As a result, the bridge has been associated with a monster’s legend called Namazu. Specifically, Namazu is a Japanese mythological monster whose movements cause earthquakes and floods. Its head is located in India, while its body is in Vietnam and its tail in Japan.


The bridge was built with the belief of a magical sword to pin down Namazu’s back. Therefore, the monster could not wriggle, preventing natural disasters in Vietnam, Japan, and India. Hence, the lives of people in these three countries would happen in peace and prosperity.

n 1719, Lord Nguyen Phuc Chu visited Hoi An and carved the bridge’s name in 3 Chinese characters on the entrance, which means “Lai Vien Kieu” in Vietnamese and “the bridge to receive guests from afar” in English. Besides, the pagoda was named “Japanese Bridge” or “Japanese Covered Bridge” since it was mainly constructed by Japanese people.


On February 17, 1990, the bridge was recognized as a National Historic – Cultural Heritage Site.


Hoi An has lots of tailors, we got cornered by one when we were coming into town looking for a bank machine, she said we could park at her families store. Big mistake! We were going to have them make us something but they were so bossy, pushy and aggressive not letting us order what we wanted and trying to make us order 10x the amoutn that we wanted that we ended up just leaving exasperated.  Not the best sale pitch ladies!!


On the way back home we stopped at the Vin Pearl Resort to check it out and see what we were missing.  It was pretty deserted.


Last stop was the Cua Dai beach.  Cua Dai Beach is situated on Cam An Ward, roughly 4km away from the centre of Hoi An Town - Quang Nam Province. It is always listed as one of top beaches of Vietnam owing to its pristine soft white sand, crystal-clear yet deep blue water, crispy sunshine, cool salty breeze, slightly sloped sea floor and the gentle waves.  It was beautiful.

Truong Son

Sun World Ba Na Hills 


We kept seeing advertisements for this place so decided to go check it out. We got on the scooter and had to drive through the city to go up the mountains to Ba Na Hills. I really thought this might be the end for me but we made it.


We really could have skipped it in hindsight.


The Vietnamese think that it is like Disney World, really it is a place for people to take Instagram photos and that is about it. 

Đà Nẵng

We decided to do a long walk from from our hotel to the Lady Buddah.  To make the walk even longer, we came upon a detour whereby we could not pass a bridge so had to walk all the way around through a neighbourhood. 


We stopped to get a drink at Son Tra Marina where the funniest event occurred. We were sitting at a table waiting for the server, when a monkey snuck in the back door, jumped onto the table beside us where a family was sitting and stole all their snacks, then ran back out the door.  


The Lady Buddah


Lady Buddha is the protector of Danang, as she has the power to re-route potential dangerous typhoon in a different direction. She is highly revered for the love she has for the people of Danang. 


Being the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam, Lady Buddha Da Nang is located at Linh Ung Pagoda on Son Tra Peninsula in Da Nang which is 9 km away from My Khe beach.


Lady Buddha Da Nang statue is inside Linh Ung pagoda courtyard with a height of 67m, the lotus diameter is 35m, equivalent to a 30-storey building.


The statue leans on the mountain, facing the sea, the kind eyes looking down, a hand exorcizes while the other hand is holding a bottle of holy water like sprinkling the peace to the offshore fishermen. On the hat of Lady Buddha statue, there is a Buddha statue 2m high. There are 17 floors in the statue lap, each floor has an altar with 21 Buddha statues which have different shapes, facial expression and posture.


One more special thing of the Lady Buddha Da Nang is whether you are standing in any place in the city, you can also easily see the Lady Buddha statue which leans on the mountain, facing the sea.

Nha Trang

Flight from DaNang to Nha Trang, Vietnam

Took the most VIP bus we have ever been on from the airport into town.

Vietnam is so easy to travel around. Hop on a very reasonably priced VietJet flight and boom you arrive without any hassles.

Stay at the Seana Hotel.

Nha Trang

Walked along the beach and waterfront of Nha Trang. 

In the evening went to the night market.


Nha Trang is a coastal resort city in southern Vietnam known for its beaches, diving sites and offshore islands. Its main beach is a long, curving stretch along Tran Phu Street backed by a promenade, hotels and seafood restaurants. Aerial cable cars cross over to Hòn Tre Island, and the nature reserves of Hòn Mun and Hòn Tằm islands, reachable by boat, have coral reefs. 


Honestely, don't understand why they do not allow cruising boats in Vietnam. This place is beautiful!!

Nha Trang

Nha Trang, Vietnam

This is a place with more days of sunshine per year than anywhere else in Vietnam. The town’s main beach, Tran Phu, a seven-kilometre stretch of pristine sand and clear water, bordered by rustling palms, colourful beachside bars and seafood restaurants.

Nha Trang

We switched hotels today to the Zenia Boutique Hotel. It was only a few blocks away.

Nha Trang Stone Church-Dam Market-Ponagar Tower


Nha Trang Cathedral 

In the 1880s, France established a colonial government in Nha Trang. They built a temporary chapel on the beach of Nha Trang to meet the religious needs of parishioners and French officials. Currently, it is the territory of Nha Trang Bishopric. The greatest contributor to the construction of this cathedral was the French parish - Louis Vallee.


Construction of the Stone Church in Nha Trang officially began on September 3, 1928. When the French arrived in Nha Trang, they cut the Hon Mot mountain in half and leveled the land with 500 anti-personnel mines to free up an area of ​​4500 square meters for the construction of the church. 


On May 14, 1933, Nha Trang Cathedral's grand opening was held. In 1934, a devout woman in Saigon presented a bell to Ambassador Dreyer and she was given the name Teresa of the Infant Jesus. However, the bell tower was not opened until December 3, 1935.


Nha Trang Cathedral is the oldest church here with over 80 years old. It is the combination of uniqueness and luxury. The church has various names. It is located in Nha Trang city, so it is called Nha Trang Cathedral - the most popular name. When you reach Intersection 6, people call it Nga Sau Church because the cathedral is nearby. The church is also known as the Stone Church in Nha Trang. However, its official name is the Christ the King Cathedral. 


Nha Trang Cathedral is one of the famous architectural works in the heart of the city. Towering 12 meters high, the Stone Church of Nha Trang has a total area of ​​more than 700 square meters.


Dam Market

Dam Market (Cho Dam) is considered Nha Trang's central market because of its beautiful and unique architecture. It is the city's largest market and a shopping center with items such as local traditional products.


Dam market was officially opened after being planned and built, and it quickly became one of Nha Trang's largest markets, with a 5270 square meter floor surface and a capacity of up to 3000 people.


Built between the 7th and 12th centuries, these impressive Cham towers are still actively used for worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists. Originally the complex had seven or eight towers, but only four remain, of which the 28m-high North Tower (Thap Chinh; AD 817), with a terraced pyramidal roof, vaulted interior masonry and vestibule, is the most magnificent.

Built between the 7th and 12th centuries, these impressive Cham towers are still actively used for worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists. Originally the complex had seven or eight towers, but only four remain, of which the 28m-high North Tower (Thap Chinh; AD 817), with a terraced pyramidal roof, vaulted interior masonry and vestibule, is the most magnificent.


Po Nagar Cham Towers

The towers stand on a granite knoll 3km north of central Nha Trang, on the northern bank of the Cai River


The towers serve as the Holy See, honouring Yang Ino Po Nagar, the goddess of the Dua (Liu) clan, which ruled over the southern part of the Cham kingdom. There are inscribed stone slabs scattered throughout the complex, most of which relate to history or religion and provide insight into the spiritual life and social structure of the Cham.


All the temples face east, as did the original entrance to the complex, which is to the right as you ascend the hillock. In centuries past, worshippers passed through the pillared meditation hall, 10 pillars of which can still be seen, before proceeding up the steep staircase to the towers.


Found our favourite beer - a tui - a mini keg, it seemed like too much, but we ended up drinking it all! The beer places in Vietnam are a great place to kick back (on tiny little chairs) and relax after a long hot day of touring around.

Nha Trang

We walked to the National Oceanographic Museum today.


The museum boasts substantial collections of marine species and Vietnam archipelago history.


The National Oceanographic Museum is located inside the Institute of Oceanography - a witness to Vietnamese history. The Institute of Oceanography was established by the French during the colonial era in 1923. Since 1952, the Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology took it over and maintained it as a research institute. 


After the Vietnam War, in 1993, the institute became an adjoined organization for all of the marine research institutes in Vietnam and its headquarters are in Nha Trang.


The National Oceanographic Museum honorably holds the record for the most extensive collection of marine specimens in Vietnam (Vietnamese Records Book, 2012). Accordingly, the museum boasts a vast collection of 20.000 marine specimens to serve scientific and educational purposes.


Sometimes when we go to the beer cafes we get approached by locals who are super friendly and want to chat especially with Chris but we can't communicate with them.  Usually they are really drunk!!! lol

Click on the word "Vietnam" below to see the trip.

Seas the day!