July 2023

Sailing the Ionian & Saronic Island Groups, Greece

July 2023

Municipal Unit of Lefkada

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Greece
July 1, 2023
30°

2023-07-01-Preveza-Lefkada-Sivota w Hahalua - 35nm

Mitch left yesterday and we left Prevaza today to go through the Lefkada Bridge and down to Sivota.

We had a couple of hitchhikers with us. John and Lucie who have their boat on the hard waiting for some warranty work for their Yamaha engines hopped aboard with their e-bikes and plan to bike back to Preveza from whereever we anchor.

Transiting the Lefkada Bridge is straightforward but requires timing. The floating bridge connects Lefkada to the mainland and opens on schedule to allow marine traffic through the Lefkada Canal. During opening times, road traffic stops and vessels line up on both sides of the channel.

The transit is narrow but well-marked, with shallow areas outside the dredged channel, so staying centered is important. Once the bridge opens, boats proceed through in an orderly flow with no stopping or overtaking. Wind and current can funnel through the canal, so good boat handling and slow, controlled speed are key. Also the bridge master is a testy fellow and will yell at the boaters to hurry up if he feels that you are going to slow!

After passing the bridge, the canal continues south toward Lefkas Marina, offering protected waters and easy access to the Ionian cruising grounds.

Fiskardo

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Greece
July 2, 2023
29°

Sivota to Fiskardo - 10.5nm

Fiskardo is a small harbour village on the northern tip of Kefalonia, Greece. It is known for its well-preserved Venetian architecture, colourful waterfront buildings, and a protected natural harbour that attracts many visiting sailboats and yachts. The village has a compact centre with restaurants, cafés, small shops, and a seaside promenade, all within easy walking distance. Nearby are several clear-water beaches and quiet anchorages (in the off-season!), and the surrounding area is green and hilly compared to much of the Greek islands. Fiskardo is also one of the few places on Kefalonia that remained largely intact after the 1953 earthquake, which is why many of its historic buildings still stand today.

Early Christian Basilica of Fiskardo

From Fiskardo harbour, the walk out toward the Fournias Peninsula leads you through low scrub and rocky coastal terrain until the basilica ruins appear spread across an open headland. You’ll first notice the rectangular stone outlines marking the three aisles of the church and the semicircular apse facing east. Sections of low walls, column bases, and the raised sanctuary area are still visible, along with the foundations where the entrance towers once stood. There’s no formal structure or heavy signage — just weathered stone, sea views on both sides, and a quiet, slightly windswept feel that makes it easy to picture how prominent the building must have been when ships approached the ancient harbour.

The Roman Cemetery

Walking along the coast just north of Fiskardo, the Roman Cemetery sits tucked into a low, rocky hillside overlooking the sea. From the path, you can make out the outlines of stone tombs and burial chambers, some partially sunken into the earth, arranged in neat rows like a quiet coastal village of the past. The stones are weathered and simple, with fragments of inscriptions still visible if you look closely. From here, the view stretches across the turquoise waters of the Ionian, a reminder of how this northern tip of Kefalonia has long been a landing point for sailors, traders, and settlers. It’s a peaceful spot, easy to imagine small boats approaching the ancient harbour while the town’s residents tended to daily life.

Atheras

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Greece
July 3, 2023
28°

Anchoring at Atheras feels like finding a hidden gem, turquoise waters, a quiet pebble beach, and olive-covered hills all around. Perfect spot to swim, relax, and soak in Kefalonia’s peaceful northeast coast.

It did take a few times to try to find a sandy spot to drop the anchor but we did find one eventually.

Argostoli

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Greece
July 4, 2023
31°

Sailing - Atheras to Argostoli, Kefalonia - 24nm

Had a beautiful sail to Argostoli. The cliffs are impressive to see.

We are supposed to get checked in on our Seamans books with the agent in Kafalonia.

Went to the town quay.

As you approach the bay of Argostoli, keep an eye on the water: this area is part of the loggerhead sea turtle’s (Caretta caretta) habitat. These endangered turtles sometimes surface near the shore, reminding sailors of the delicate marine life that thrives in the Ionian.

Argostoli

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Greece
July 5, 2023
30°

From Argostoli we set off uphill toward the old city of Krani, and soon found ourselves amid those huge ancient stone walls rising from the scrubby hillside. These so‑called Cyclopean walls are built from massive limestone boulders fitted together without mortar, the kind of towering rocks that make you think giants once walked here. On the trail you can see how skillfully these huge stones were placed, and once you reach the higher ground you get broad views back over the bay and the lagoon where you sailed in. It’s a striking contrast to the water below, and an easy reminder of Kefalonia’s deep history carved into the landscape.

Municipal Unit of Iera Poli Messologhiou

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Greece
July 6, 2023
32°

Sailing from Argistoli, Kefalonia to Messolonghi - 58.5nm

It was a low wind sail today. We saw our friends on sv Dory half way and they took pictures of us, and we took pictures of them with the light air sails up. That was really fun!

The approach to Messolonghi is unlike most Greek harbours, a long, narrow channel cutting through shallow lagoons before reaching the town. As you follow the marked route, the water becomes calm and protected, with low marshland stretching out on both sides and traditional wooden fishing huts perched on stilts over the water. It’s a slow, steady transit where depth and navigation marks matter more than speed. The landscape feels quiet and wide open, often dotted with seabirds, and the sense of arrival builds gradually until the marina and town finally appear at the end of the channel.

Municipal Unit of Iera Poli Messologhiou

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Greece
July 7, 2023
32°

Went for a long, hot walk arount town. Messolonghi is a historic town on the western coast of Greece, located on the edge of a large lagoon that opens into the Ionian Sea. Known for its role in the Greek War of Independence, the town is often called the “City of the Dead” because of its famous siege and heroic resistance in the 1820s.

Today, Messolonghi is a peaceful place with a mix of neoclassical buildings, waterfront cafes, and small streets lined with shops and tavernas. The lagoon area nearby is rich in wildlife, particularly birds, making it a notable spot for nature enthusiasts.

The town also has several monuments and a museum dedicated to its revolutionary history, offering insight into its cultural and historical significance.

Trizonia

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Greece
July 8, 2023
33°

Sailing from Messolonghi to Trizonia-36.6nm

Leaving Messolonghi starts with the long, well-marked lagoon channel, a slow and careful exit where staying between the buoys matters due to shallow water on either side. Depths in the canal are generally around 5.5–6 m, so most cruising cats and monohulls are comfortable but there’s little room to wander.

Once clear of the lagoon, you’re out into the Gulf of Patras heading east toward the Gulf of Corinth, typically an easy coastal passage depending on afternoon winds and sea state.

Passing under the Rio–Antirrio Bridge felt like a real milestone on the passage east. The massive cable-stayed spans tower overhead as you follow the marked navigation channel, with currents and gusty winds reminding you to stay sharp on the helm. Ferries and commercial traffic keep things lively, but once through, the water opens into the Gulf of Corinth and the atmosphere shifts instantly back to relaxed cruising. It’s an impressive transit, one of those moments that really makes you feel like you’re moving through the heart of Greece by sea.

Trizonia sits tucked along the north shore and is a popular yacht stop because of its extremely sheltered unfinished marina. We luckily got the last dock space, with a lot of help from the cruisers who were already there.

The final arrival feels calm and relaxed, a quiet, car-free island with a laid-back anchorage vibe and a simple harbour that’s become a favourite recharge stop for cruisers moving through the Corinth Gulf.

Trizonia

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Greece
July 9, 2023
32°

Trizonia Island is a truly inspiring place and one of the last of its kind. It is the only inhabited island in the entire Gulf of Corinth, located between mainland Greece and the Peloponnese, and constitutes the perfect place to relax.

Love this little island and its free marina. So chill.

Trizonia

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Greece
July 10, 2023
32°

Our Greek friends who were moored behind us left today.

They gave us so many ideas of where to go with the kids in the Sarconic Gulf.

Municipal Unit of Galaxidi

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Greece
July 11, 2023
32°

Sailing Trizonia to Galaxidi 23.4nm

We sailed 23.4 nm from Trizonia to Galaxidi, enjoying a steady, open-water passage across the Gulf of Corinth. The coastline unfolded with rugged hills and traditional villages as we approached, and the sheltered anchorage just off the town offered calm, clear waters to drop anchor. From the boat, the hillside town looked picturesque, with its red-roofed houses and quiet streets, making it a peaceful spot to relax after the day’s sail but boy it is hot out here!

Municipal Unit of Galaxidi

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Greece
July 12, 2023
34°

We took a stroll along Galaxidi’s waterfront, and it’s easy to see why this town has such a maritime reputation. The quay is lined with elegant neoclassical houses, cafés, and small shops, all reflecting the town’s seafaring history. Traditional fishing boats bob gently in the clear water, while the promenade invites slow wandering, with plenty of spots to pause for a coffee or watch the sunset over the Gulf of Corinth. The atmosphere is calm and timeless, giving a real sense of life by the water.

After strolling along Galaxidi’s charming waterfront, we wandered up the hill to the Tomb of Lokros, an ancient burial site just outside town. The site is simple but striking, with stone remains overlooking the sea and a sense of history that stretches back to classical times. From here, you get a quiet, elevated view of the town and the gulf, making it a perfect spot to reflect on Galaxidi’s long maritime and cultural heritage

Municipal Unit of Galaxidi

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Greece
July 13, 2023
35°

Coping with the heat wave. It's so hot here, there is no wind, we go swimming but as soon as we get out of the water, we get really hot once more.

Was going to wait here for the kids so we could go for a tour on Delphi, but decided it is too hot and the next stop is too far away. It would be a boring motor with a generator that is overheating. So going to leave here tomorrow.

Municipal Unit of Corinth

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Greece
July 14, 2023
40°

Sailing from Galaxidi to Corinth. 39.6nm

We left Galaxidi for the 39.6-nautical-mile run east toward Corinth, but the wind never really showed up, turning the day into a long, steady painful motor through the Gulf of Corinth.

We went out for a nice dinner in town. It is alot nicer than people have said it was on the cruiser apps.

We will be waiting here for the kids and Andrea's friend Brownyn before transiting the Corinth Canal in a few days.

Municipal Unit of Corinth

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Greece
July 15, 2023
39°

Corinth is a busy coastal town sitting at the western entrance to the famous Corinth Canal, blending modern Greek life with deep ancient history. From the anchorage, you’ll notice a long waterfront lined with cafés, tavernas, and a lively promenade where locals gather in the evenings. While the modern town feels practical and working-harbour focused, just inland lies Ancient Corinth and the Acrocorinth fortress, reminders that this area has been an important crossroads between seas for thousands of years. It’s a convenient stop to prepare for the canal transit, with a mix of everyday Greek atmosphere and a strong sense of its strategic maritime past.

We are actually the only ones here in the anchorage. Everyone comes for one night or one hour, then they leave to go through the canal or they have come from the canal and keep going.

Municipal Unit of Corinth

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Greece
July 16, 2023
37°

The kids arrive from Canada by cab from the Athens Airport.

Unfortunatley the weather turned and it is very rough in the anchorage. It was fun getting them in the dingy with all of the luggage. The weather is too rough for us to go into shore again, so I made dinner on the boat. We will be leaving tomorrow to transit the Corinth Canal!

Korfos

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Greece
July 17, 2023
30°

2023-07-17-Corinth-Corinth Canal-Korfos-19.2nm

We were planning to go to ancient Corinth this morning but the anchorage is still really bouncy and we have already been here for a while and want to get going.

Going through the Corinth Canal – we were the last boat to go through, our engines were on max and we still couldn’t keep up with the boat in front of us. Luckily there was no boats on the other side waiting to go through. It was really cool and the kids had a good time taking pics etc.

Passing through the Corinth Canal is a surreal experience. As we approached, we could see cars and trucks lined up along the banks, waiting for their turn to cross the narrow passage on the single-lane road above.

The walls rise almost vertically on either side, and with our electric motors, the boat glided silently through the calm water, the only sound the gentle splash against the hull. From the helm, it feels like floating through history: sheer limestone cliffs tower above, bridges arch far overhead, and the scale of this human-carved corridor is breathtaking.

The Corinth Canal, completed in 1893, was built to link the Ionian and Saronic Gulfs and save ships the long journey around the Peloponnese. Ancient rulers had tried for centuries to cut through the limestone, but it wasn’t until modern engineering that the canal was finished. Sailing through it today, you can appreciate both the dramatic cliffs and the centuries of ambition that shaped this narrow, historic passage.

We emerged into the Sarconic Gulf and headed for the anchorage in Korfos.

Korfos is such a charming little fishing village tucked along the coast. The kids picked a nice waterfront place for dinner and we enjoyed swimming and got out the paddle board. We bought 2 camp chairs. The whole place has a relaxed, timeless vibe that’s perfect for a quiet stop along the Greek coastline.

"The goal is not to sail the boat, but rather to help the boat sail herself."

Municipal Unit of Epidavros

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Greece
July 18, 2023
37°

Korfus to Epidavros - 9.2nm

We sailed the short 9.2 nm hop from Korfos to Epidaurus, enjoying a calm, scenic passage along the coast. With temperatures soaring to 37°C, we decided to tie up at the town quay to take a break and switch on the air conditioning, a welcome relief from the heat. It is great having a crew of 6 to help with the docking etc. Hooked up to water and electricity

Smoke from wildfires in the distance tinged the sky, giving the horizon a hazy, surreal look, and unfortuantley we even had some ashes falling on us from the wildfires in Corinth, which made it even hotter.

We are looking forward to a visit tomorrow to the historic theatre.

Municipal Unit of Epidavros

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Greece
July 19, 2023
38°

We took two taxis up to the Ancient City of Epidaurus, one of Greece’s most famous archaeological sites. The cab driver told us that there are wild fires in Corinth and the road that the kids took from the airport has been closed. The sky is very red and black, this probably isn’t helping with the heat.

Known primarily for its ancient theatre, the city was a major center of healing and worship dedicated to Asclepius, the god of medicine, dating back to the 4th century BC. Walking through the ruins, we explored the temple precincts, stoas, and remnants of the sanctuary, imagining the pilgrims who once came here seeking cures. The theatre itself is incredibly well-preserved and famous for its perfect acoustics, still used today for performances, you can stand at the stage and even a whisper carries to the very top rows, which of course we tried.

Later, we returned to the coast, a short walk from the town quay, for a snorkeling experience in the underwater city of Epidaurus. Portions of the ancient settlement are now submerged due to earthquakes and rising water levels over the centuries, leaving stone foundations, columns, and walls just below the surface. Swimming over these ruins gives a surreal feeling of floating above history as you can see the outlines of streets, building bases, and even what might have been small temples or courtyards. It’s a rare combination of archaeology and marine life, with schools of fish weaving between sunken stones, unfortuantley the water was a bit murky but it was still a cool thing to do and a great way to get out of the heat for a while. Chris didn’t go because is ear really hurt. Found a rather gritty beach club to lounge in the chairs.

Agistri

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Greece
July 20, 2023
39°

2023-07-20-EpiDavros to Agistri- 8.7nm

On 20 July 2023, we sailed the short 8.7 nm leg from Epidaurus to Agistri. Agistri is a small, lush island in the Saronic Gulf, known for its pine-covered hills, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and quiet, sheltered bays. We stern tied to rocks and everyone was having fun swimming and playing on the paddle board until we realized that the anchor wasn't holding as the wind picked up and we were quickly getting too close to said rocks.

We very quickly moved to start the motors and pull up the anchor even though everyone was still in the water!! Fortunately, Andrea and Brownwyn were already swimming so they swam over and untied us. We had them swim out to us once we were away from the rocks and all was well.

We motored around the corner to another anchorage, where we had to anchor again stern -to the rocks but this time the anchor held and we made sure we were much further out. It was a much busier anchorage which lots of charter boats it was was great. We stayed on the boat this evening instead of going ashore.

Poros

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Greece
July 21, 2023
37°

2023-07-21-Agistri to Poros - 14.1nm

We had a decent sail from Agistii to Poros. The main town anchorage is split into two. You can anchor closer to town in deeper water or you can anchor on the other side in shallower water, we opted for the shallow side. Once we anchored we looked over to the beach and saw 3 familiar silhouettes! Tim and the kids who we spent the winter with in Montenegro. They have been anchored in the deep section for quite a few weeks now and are really enjoying it here in Poros. We were going to meet up for dinner but the little one fell asleep and they couldn’t wake him up. They left early the next morning.

The town of Poros sits at the northern tip of the island, right on the waterfront, and immediately gives a welcoming, picturesque vibe. Whitewashed buildings with red-tiled roofs climb gently up the hillside, while cafés, tavernas, and small shops line the seafront. The harbour is lively but not crowded, and walking through the narrow streets feels charming and relaxed.

We took the dingy into town and found a nice Greek taverna for dinner.

Poros

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Greece
July 22, 2023
38°

We went out for breakfast as it was too hot to cook on the boat. Cari was feeling very ill. We went to the Kanali Beach Club and got beach chairs for the day. Not the cleanest beach but it is nice and cool but Ryan doesn’t like the beach. The kids walked into town then came back and spent more time at the beach. Cari forgot her phone on the boat. It is Bronwyn's last night on the boat, so they all got dressed up, took the dingy into town and went out for dinner and drinks afterwards.

Poros

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Greece
July 23, 2023
42°

We decided to move the boat over to the deeper anchorage as it is closer to the town.

We rented 3 ATV’s for the day to tour around the island. The heat was unbelievable. Ryan burned the tops of both his hands. Stopped at a waterfront place for lunch but Bronwyn had to go back to the boat to pack so Andrea took her on the ATV, then the dingy then dropped her at the ferry, then took the ATV back to the restaurant.

Hydra

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Greece
July 24, 2023
34°

Fast Ferry from Poros to Hydra (Idra)

We booked tickets on the high speed ferry to Hydro (Idra) to spend the day. Saw lots of donkeys, went for a very hot hike, got in a fight with a restaureur, and saw Leonard Cohen’s house. Though it’s a private residence and not open to the public, people can walk past to see the simple white house where he lived and wrote during the 1960s, when Hydra was a creative haven for artists and writers from around the world.

Hydra is one of the most distinctive islands in the Saronic Gulf, known for its elegant stone mansions, steep cobbled lanes, and completely car-free lifestyle, donkeys and foot traffic are the main way around. The harbour is instantly recognizable, a tight horseshoe shape lined with historic buildings, cafés, and fishing boats, all set against a dramatic rocky hillside. Walking through town feels like stepping back in time, with art galleries, quiet courtyards, and sweeping sea views around every corner.

Then we took the high speed ferry back to Poros where we had left the boat at anchor.

Perdika

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Greece
July 25, 2023
36°

2023-07-25-Poros to Perdicka, Aegina

We sailed from Poros to Perdika under main and Code 0, enjoying an easy run across the Saronic. On arrival we stern-tied to the dock, where a group of local kids from the swimming area rushed over to help with lines, incredibly enthusiastic and surprisingly skilled dockhands!

Later in the day, a flotilla of nine charter boats arrived and squeezed into the harbour, creating plenty of excitement, one even came a little too close to our bowsprit for comfort. Thankfully, we had a great spot on the newly rebuilt concrete docks. There’s a swimming area right behind the boat, an easy-entry beach for those of us wanting a gentler dip, and of course a long line of waterfront tavernas to work our way through.

Perdika, on the island of Aegina about 9 km south of Aegina Town, is a charming fishing village perched on a hillside with sweeping views over the deep blue sea and the nearby island of Moni. Traditional, relaxed, and welcoming, it’s a lovely stop along the Saronic route.

Perdika

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Greece
July 26, 2023
40°

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