June 2023

Sailing in Croatia

Croatia - May 17 to June 8, 2023

Split

Necujam, Solta to Split, North West 10.7nm 2h34m

We motored the 10 miles over to Split as there is no wind. It is a large bay, and we are swinging at anchor with lots of room around us, it is a very nice change.

Went to marine store and bought a few things. Went to three bike shops looking for e-bikes or regular bikes. No luck. Walked around old town a bit. Pretty cool

Split Old Town is a historical and cultural center in Croatia and a wonderful UNESCO World Heritage city.

The historic old town of Split has a history stretching back some 1700 years, and the most important attraction is the ancient Diocletian’s Palace from 305 AD, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. There are many cultural events and festivals, especially in the summer, and many museums and exhibitions for locals and visitors alike.

The Peristyle is the central square of Diocletian’s Palace and probably the most charming place in the old town of Split. Formerly a reception hall for imperial visits, it is one of the most important attractions of the city, with its magnificent facades and original Roman columns and arches. On the steps of the Peristyle, there is a place where you can enjoy a good coffee and the hustle and bustle in a fantastic setting.

We will go back to see the rest another day. 

For dinner, we went to the restaurant right by where we were anchored called Mandrach Restaurant. It was really good. 

Split

Split, Croatia 

Split, Croatia, is a city that seamlessly blends ancient history, breathtaking natural landscapes, and vibrant coastal charm. During our visit, we explored some lesser-known but equally fascinating spots that gave us a deeper appreciation of this Dalmatian gem. From rugged parks and striking rock formations to historic churches and cultural museums, here’s a glimpse into what we discovered.

Saddle (Sedlo) Park: A Natural Escape

For those seeking a break from the bustling city streets, Saddle Park, also known as Sedlo, offers a serene escape into nature. Nestled within the Marjan Hill area, the park provides stunning panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea and Split’s iconic terracotta rooftops. Whether hiking through pine-scented trails or simply soaking in the scenery, it’s the perfect place to reconnect with nature while still being close to the city.

Santine Rocks: A Climber’s Paradise

One of the most striking natural features we encountered was the Santine Rocks. These jagged limestone formations rise dramatically along the coastline, making them a favorite spot for rock climbers and adventure seekers. Even if you’re not scaling the cliffs, the rugged beauty of these rocks, set against the backdrop of the azure sea, is a sight to behold. It’s a fantastic location for photography or simply enjoying the raw power of nature.

Church of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows: A Hidden Historical Gem

Tucked away from the main tourist trails, the Church of Our Lady of Seven Sorrows offers a glimpse into Split’s religious and cultural heritage. This small yet beautiful church is a peaceful retreat, adorned with intricate details that reflect its centuries-old history. It serves as a reminder of the deep spiritual roots that continue to shape the region.

The main museum in Split, Croatia, is called the City Museum of Split.   

No visit to Split is complete without diving into its rich past, and the city’s museum does just that. Housing an impressive collection of artifacts, the museum takes visitors on a journey from Roman times to the present day. With exhibits showcasing ancient relics, medieval history, and local traditions, it provides invaluable insights into the cultural evolution of Split and the Dalmatian coast.

The Harbour: A Lively Waterfront Experience

The heartbeat of Split is undoubtedly its harbor. Lined with charming cafés, seafood restaurants, and bustling markets, it’s the perfect place to experience the city’s vibrant energy. Watching the boats sway gently in the marina while enjoying a fresh seafood dish is a quintessential Split experience. Whether you’re setting off on an island-hopping adventure or just strolling along the waterfront, the harbor embodies the essence of coastal Croatia.

Paklinski Otoci


Split to Pakleni Islands - 24.9 nm


At 0830 we pulled up anchor. Really notice that there is alot more boat out and about, most of which are charter boats.


At 1430 we got a mooring ball from one of the restaurants – Coglnago Wine and Snack Bar

It’s super busy here, lots of charter boats.   Some boats had to leave their mooring because they didn’t have a reservation when other boats came in. It was chaos.

We went in for dinner – it was really expensive and not very good, so basic for $150 euro – 2 Aperol 

Spritzes. Dinner was ribs, fish, potoates, salad, bottle of red wine, bottle of water,  and for dessert 2 scoops of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce.

Šćedro


Vlaka, Pakleni Island to Otok, Scedro Island - 29.6 nm


We left Vlaka at 09:00, heading into 20 knots of wind—a fresh start to the day.


As we sailed on, we experimented with regeneration, hoping to harness some energy from the conditions. By 10:30, with the wind building to 23 knots and waves stacking up, we tucked in two reefs, battling head-on into the gusts. By noon, conditions eased, and we shook out the reefs, enjoying a steadier ride.


By 15:00, we arrived at our destination and moored securely between two mooring balls, fore and aft, with help from a passing boat. This is a new one for us. The harbor was lively—charter boats packed the anchorage, their crews celebrating in full force. A few restaurants lined the shore, adding to the atmosphere. The harbor staff provided garbage bags, emphasizing the need to sort our waste—glass, plastic, cans, and general trash. Staying here came at a cost of €54 for the night.


As evening fell, dinghies zipped back and forth at full speed, their wakes rolling through the mooring field. Right in front of us, a German boat with six guys onboard made themselves quite at home—swimming, showering, and, as seems to be a trend, fully embracing the art of nudity on deck. 

Korčula

Scedro Island to Uvala Luka, Korcula Old Town 32.7 nm

A Stormy Start and a Challenging Sail

The day began at 09:35 with pouring rain, setting the tone for a wet and windy departure. By noon, we cast off from the mooring and got underway.

At 12:20, the wind picked up to 11.5 knots, but unfortunately, we weren’t making much progress in the right direction. By 13:30, the wind had increased to 15 knots, making for a lively sail with waves building around us.

After hours of adjusting course and riding the shifting conditions, we finally dropped anchor at 18:20, ready to dry off and unwind after a long day on the water.

Okuklje

Korcula Old Town to Okuklje, Korcula -  28.8nm

Sailing, Spinnakers, and a Swarm of Wasps

The morning started at 09:30 as we unfurled the Code 0, hoping for steady winds to carry us forward. By 14:00, we raised the spinnaker (or Parasailor), enjoying a smooth downwind sail—until we found ourselves battling an unexpected challenge: a swarm of wasps buzzing around the deck.

By 15:00, the spinnaker was still flying, keeping us moving at a good pace. Finally, at 16:45, we tied up at a restaurant dock, happy to be moored for the evening.

With the boat secured, we tackled some much-needed laundry—two full loads—while plugging in to recharge our batteries. The restaurant allowed us to take on some water, but with restrictions in place, we could only fill 50 liters. 

June 8, 2023

Okuklje, Korcula to Corfu, Greece - 219.7 nm

In the morning we  walked up to the church and around the waterfront.  Once we were down I hoisted Chris up the mast to install the radar reflector and tidy the wires up. It was calm so not too bad to do.

June 8, 2023 continued

We left Okuklje, Korcula and planned to sail to Dubrovnik to check out of Croatia, and go to Albania, however we spoke to an agent in Corfu who told us that we could use the Canadian-Greece Bilateral Agreement which would give us 90 days in Greece if we came straight from another EU country, so we checked the weather, turned the ship around so to speak and headed for Corfu. 

Our First Overnight Sail: A Night Under the Stars

Setting off on our first overnight sail was both exciting and a little daunting. We left at 11:15, with the sun shining and a light breeze guiding us forward. By 13:00, we had the main and Code 0 up, sailing comfortably in 10 knots of wind. It felt like the perfect start to our journey.

By 16:00, the wind faded, forcing us to take the main down while the Code 0 kept us moving at a slow 3–4 knots. By 15:15, we dropped both sails, but soon after, at 15:30, we hoisted the Parasailor, hoping to catch whatever breeze remained.

As the sun set, the wind held steady at 8 knots, giving us a smooth 4-knot speed over ground (SOG). By 20:17, we switched on the navigation lights, settling into the rhythm of night sailing. The sky was breathtaking—clear, with a bright moon and endless stars. The water came alive with bioluminescence, making for a magical scene.

At 21:40, with the wind dropping to 4–5 knots, we took the sails down and drifted under the night sky. It was peaceful, but as dawn approached, a new challenge emerged—bugs. By 07:00, we were busy trying to clean up the tiny insects that had invaded the boat overnight.

The morning brought light winds, just 1.3 knots at 09:10, but by 10:30, the excitement returned when we caught two large mahi-mahi. One managed to escape, but the other left quite the mess in the cockpit. At 10:45, with 3 knots of wind, we managed to maintain a SOG of 5.1 knots.

By midday, we had arrived in Corfu, Greece. Anchoring proved tricky—we set and reset the anchor three times in 25–30 feet of water before finally settling in. That evening, we celebrated our first overnight sail with a well-earned mahi-mahi dinner, recounting the highlights of a truly unforgettable experience.

Overnight sail -Croatia to Corfu, Greece

Greece- June 10 to 

Sorry for what I said when I was docking the boat.

Corfu

A Day in Corfu: Coffee, Bureaucracy, and Bus Rides

The next morning, we met another Canadian boat in the anchorage and enjoyed a coffee aboard their vessel, swapping stories and travel tips.

Later, we took the public bus into town, navigating the local transportation system as we attempted to sort out our visa situation under the bilateral agreement. We had been working with our agent, Piracles, who initially told us we needed to visit the port authority to sign paperwork. However, after getting on the bus and searching for the right place to buy tickets—only to be misdirected—he called to tell us we didn’t need to go after all. 

It turns out there’s no official paperwork confirming our entry into Greece under the bilateral agreement, but we are still allowed to stay for 90 days. A bit of a bureaucratic wild goose chase, but at least we got to explore town along the way!

Corfu

As we are anchored in Gouvia anchorage, we took the dingy to explore Corfu old town. 

Exploring Old Town Corfu & the Historic Old Fort

Wandering through Old Town Corfu feels like stepping into a living museum, where Venetian, French, and British influences blend seamlessly into a charming labyrinth of narrow streets, elegant balconies, and hidden courtyards. The pastel-colored buildings, worn by time, create a warm and inviting atmosphere, while laundry flutters between windows and the aroma of fresh coffee drifts from the lively cafés.

The famous Liston promenade, with its grand arches inspired by Paris’s Rue de Rivoli, is the perfect place to sit and soak in the local energy. Nearby, the Esplanade—one of the largest town squares in Europe—offers a picturesque setting with green lawns and historic monuments. As you wander deeper into the town, you’ll pass bustling markets, centuries-old churches, and cozy tavernas serving Corfu’s signature dishes, like pastitsada and sofrito.

At the edge of Old Town, the Old Fortress (Palaio Frourio) stands as a striking reminder of Corfu’s strategic importance. Built by the Venetians in the 15th century on a rocky peninsula, the fortress offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Ionian Sea and the red-tiled rooftops of Corfu Town. The walk up to the top is rewarding, leading past ancient bastions, a small chapel, and even a lighthouse. Despite its military past, today the fortress is a peaceful place to explore, with its thick stone walls whispering stories of sieges, naval battles, and a resilient island spirit.

Stopped at a hardware store on the way back and found a very cool beachfront restaurant with a long dock into very shallow water. Met a British couple who had bought property on Corfu – 2 acres?  Stayed and had a few beers as we used his dock to tied up to. 

Corfu

Gouvia Marina Anchorage Corfu, Greece to Garitas, Corfu Old City Anchorage  4.7 nm 

Moved over to the Corfu Old Town anchorage to pick up some parts and do boat shopping.

Syvota

Edit

Corfu Old Town anchorage to Syvota Island  21.3nm

Finding Anchorage in Syvota, Greece

Our original plan was to dock at Plataria Marina, but upon arrival, we found it completely full. With no available berths, we set off in search of a suitable anchorage.

We found a spot between two luxurious power yachts and attempted to stern tie to the rocks. The first attempt didn’t go as planned—we had already secured our lines to the shore when we realized we needed to reposition. After untying and pulling out, we searched for another anchorage, but space was tight. With limited options, we returned to our original spot and tried again. This time, everything held, and we settled into a well-protected anchorage—a relief after the maneuvering.

Once secure, we took a quick walk through Syvota, a charming coastal town with a laid-back atmosphere. The waterfront, lined with tavernas and cafés, had a relaxed vibe, perfect for unwinding after a day of navigating.

Sometimes, the best anchorages take a little extra effort, but they’re always worth it. 

Syvota

Discovering Syvota, Greece


After securing our anchorage, we ended up staying in Syvota for two more days, giving us time to explore this beautiful Ionian gem. Nestled along the Epirus coastline, Syvota is a picturesque seaside village known for its stunning turquoise waters, lush green islets, and charming waterfront. It feels like a hidden retreat, offering both tranquility and a touch of luxury.


The natural beauty of the area is undeniable. The crystal-clear bays around Syvota, like Bella Vraka Beach and Pisina Beach, are perfect for swimming, with their shallow, almost tropical waters. Even from the boat, we could see the seabed beneath us, a reminder of why this area is often called the "Caribbean of Greece."


The town itself is lively yet laid-back, with a mix of local fishing boats and sleek yachts lining the waterfront. We spent time strolling along the promenade, stopping at cafés and tavernas serving fresh seafood and traditional Greek dishes. The scent of grilled octopus and salty sea air made every meal feel like an experience. In the evenings, the harbor lights reflected on the water, creating a magical atmosphere as people gathered for a relaxed night out.


Syvota is a perfect stop for sailors—well-protected anchorages, excellent tavernas, and stunning scenery all around. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, soak in the views, and appreciate the simple beauty of the Ionian coast.