April 2023

Tivat

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Working on our new bridle system.

Tivat

A new Italian store is opening up at Porto Montenegro and they are giving away free proseco and cannolis! My absolute favourite.

Tivat

The joy of electric cooking on a boat.  I've never had an assist funtion before. I love it.

Tivat

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Fun party on Stray Kitty, even had room for a dance party. 

Tivat

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Our winter berth at Porto Montenegro.

Tivat

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Cruisers are starting to leave for the beginning of the cruising season as most peoples contract ends at the end of April. 

We also went over to Navar with our friends on SeaDreamer. 

Tivat

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More cruiser fun.

A bunch of people organized a surprise paty for Nat and boy was she ever surprised! 

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We joined in on a boat renaming ceremony with our friends on sv Flying Fish - new name! 

This ritual both purges the old boat name from the Ledger of the Deep and from the memory of Poseidon and Neptune AND gets their blessing for the vessel’s new name.

Invocation and blessing: We call upon the gods of the sea, Neptune and Poseidon, to favor this vessel with their blessing. 

Expression of gratitude: We offer thanks to the gods for protection of this vessel in the past. We make a toast to (old boat name) and before that (if any prior boat names.) 

Supplication and de-naming: We request these nautical gods erase all record of previous boat names from this vessel. All appearances of the boat name is then removed from the vessel (if not already) and an offering of red wine is then poured into the water from the bow from east to west. Urine is used in certain cultures to wash away any trace of the old boat name to clean the wounds of the “soul” of the boat. During the renaming ceremony red wine is typically used because it symbolizes the blood of a sacrificial virgin. 

Rededication and renaming: We ask that the gods of the sea rededicate this vessel with the new name (add new name.) 

Libation: The remaining wine is shared with the gods and distinguished guests on the bow of the vessel. 

Final Christening: The traditional boat christening ceremony involves breaking a bottle of wine or champagne on the bow of a boat. The captain of the vessel then proclaims I christen thee… (new boat name.) By completing this renaming and christening ceremony, this newly named boat (add name) pleases the nautical gods and once again is protected on the waters. Long live (new boat name.) 

Tivat

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We took off all our battery connections on our main house bank and made larger ones. 

Tivat

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Last curry night for the season.  Everyone is startin to leave Porto Montenegro for the start of the cruising season.

Trebinje

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Trebinje is the southernmost city in Bosnia and Herzegovina which made it a perfect first stop on our driving tour. The drive from Montenegro to Trebinje is very picturesque. Trebinje is a very cute town with tree lined streets in the old town.

Pics:

Cathedral Temple of Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord.  Its construction was started in 1888 and lasted until 1908.

Hercegovačka Gračanica was built as a fulfillment of the wish of the famous Serbian poet Jovan Dučić expressed in his will. He wanted to be buried on one of the hills surrounding Trebinje in a church similar to "the one in Kosovo", referring to Kosovo Gračanica, the most famous endowment of King Milutin from 1321. It was closed when we were there, so couldn't see inside but the sweeping views of the city are spectaular.  As part of the complex, next to the church, there is also a bell tower, bishop's palace, an amphitheater, a souvenir shop and the summer restaurant which was closed as well.

The Arslanagić (Perović) Bridge is a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The bridge was disassembled and transferred from the old location near the medieval Town Mićevac to the new location 5 kilometres downstream. It took two years, 1970 to 1972, for this impressive engineering enterprise to be accomplished. The bridge had to be disassembled stone by stone and then rebuilt at the current location.

Watch out for cows on the road when driving in BiH! 

We stopped for lunch in Stolac, at a restaurant that used to be an old mill right beside the Provalije Waterfall.  What a beautiful spot to have a bite. 

Radimlja Necropolis is one of many necropolis of medevil tombstones. There are 135 medevil (stećak) tombstones in the necropolis, 63 of which are decorated. About 30% of them have the shape of a plate, 25% the shape of a chest and 25% of the chest with a base, there are also three stone crosses. They are located in a field surrounded by a rock massif. 

On to Mostar......... 

Mostar

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Franciscan Church and Monastery of St. Peter and St. Paul.   Church of St. Peter and Paul is a Roman Catholic church with a monastery in Mostar. It is located along the river Radobolja, at the foot of Hum. The church is run by the Franciscans.

What a view of the city from the 75 m high view point. We didn't have to climb all the way up though, we took an elevator than climbed that that last steps to the top. 

The Sniper Tower is a creepy site, its now an abandoned structure but once was a Yoguslav Bank that was taken over by Serb and Croatian forces during the war.  You can still see bullet holes in the street and many buildings around the Sniper Tower.    You can still see bullet holes in the crosswalks in Mostar as a haunting reminder of the Bosnian War (1992-1995). During the conflict, Mostar was heavily shelled and saw intense street fighting, especially in the 1993-1994 battle between Bosniaks and Croats. The city's infrastructure, including roads and sidewalks, was riddled with bullets and shrapnel.

After the war, while many buildings were repaired, some scars—like bullet holes in sidewalks and crosswalks—were left untouched. These visible marks serve as a historical reminder of the destruction and suffering the city endured, allowing visitors and locals alike to reflect on Mostar’s painful past and ongoing recovery.

Mostar and the Old Bridge at night, isn't it beautiful!

Mostar’s Old Bridge (Stari Most) is one of the most iconic landmarks in the Balkans. Built in 1566 by the Ottomans under Suleiman the Magnificent, it stood for over 400 years as a masterpiece of Islamic architecture and a vital connection between the two sides of the Neretva River.

During the Bosnian War, the bridge was tragically destroyed in 1993 by shelling. It was later rebuilt in 2004 using traditional methods and original materials, symbolizing reconciliation and resilience. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its stunning design and the tradition of local divers leaping into the river below.

The Crooked Bridge (Kriva Ćuprija) in Mostar is a small, charming stone bridge that resembles a miniature version of the famous Old Bridge (Stari Most). Built in the 16th century, likely around 1558, it spans the Radobolja River, a tributary of the Neretva. Historians believe it served as a prototype for the larger Old Bridge, allowing Ottoman architects to test their engineering techniques.

The bridge was severely damaged in 2000 due to flooding but was carefully reconstructed with UNESCO’s help. Today, it stands as a peaceful, picturesque spot, surrounded by traditional stone buildings, offering visitors a quieter but equally scenic alternative to Stari Most.

Sarajevo

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Sarajevo is a city where East meets West, a place where history and culture blend seamlessly. Walking through its compact downtown, you’ll pass from Austro-Hungarian elegance to the Ottoman-era charm of Baščaršija, the city’s old bazaar. Cobbled streets lead to smoky ćevapi grills, Turkish-style coffee houses, and the call to prayer echoing from mosques. 

The Latin Bridge, infamous for the 1914 assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, reminds visitors of Sarajevo’s role in shaping world history. Nearby, the scars of the 1990s siege still mark some buildings, a stark contrast to the lively cafés and bustling Ferhadija Street. The modern Sarajevo City Hall, meticulously restored, sits along the Miljacka River, showcasing the city’s resilience. 

Random Sarajevo pics:

👉Shopping for rugs.

👉Sarajevo Sebilj is a popular landmark, an Ottoman-style wooden fountain built in 1753 is right in the middle of the old city square.

👉Yummy treats, tried a few.

👉The Old Bazaar of Sarajevo, a covered market.

👉Mosque (can't remember which one!)

👉Sacred Heart Cathedral- Catholic church - the largest cathedral in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

👉Sarajevo Eternal Flame - a memorial to the military and civilian victims of the Second World War in Sarajevo.

👉The Latin Bridge was built by Ali Ayni-Bey in 1565, it connected the right bank of the Miljacka with the Catholic quarter of the city.

👉Sarajevo Museum 1878 – 1918

In front of the museum is the spot where the Austro-Hungarian heir to the throne Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sofia were murdered in 1914. It is marked with a red splotch on the ground. 

Ljutava

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We left Mostar and drove to a cute town called Konjic, on the banks of the Neretva River, where we bought our tickets for a tour of Tito's Bunker.

You would never know it was there, which was the point, you drive along the river, and down a small road and all you see is the front of a house, until you walk inside.

Armijska Ratna Komanda D-0 is the real name and is a Cold War-era nuclear bunker and military command centre built to protect Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito and up to 350 members of his inner circle in the event of an atomic conflict, the structure is made up of residential areas, conference rooms, offices, strategic planning rooms, and other areas. The bunker remained a state secret until after the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s.

We thought that it would not be very busy but when we arrived there was a big traffic jam on the road then we found ourselves in the middle of about 250 Slovian tourists, once they all got settled, we got oursleves a private tour as we were the only English speaking tourists in the whole crowd!

It is now operating as a museum, opened in 2011 for the first time. 

Sarajevo

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Sarajevo’s cemeteries are a striking and ever-present reminder of the city's turbulent past. Scattered across hillsides and nestled between neighborhoods, they are some of the most visible scars left by the Siege of Sarajevo (1992-1996). White gravestones fill parks, schoolyards, and hills where no cemeteries previously existed, marking the final resting places of thousands who perished during the war.

One of the most poignant sites is the Kovači Cemetery, where many Bosniak soldiers who defended Sarajevo are buried, including Alija Izetbegović, Bosnia’s first president. The nearby Martyrs’ Memorial Cemetery is equally moving, its rows of uniform white headstones standing in solemn tribute to the war’s victims.

On a hill overlooking the city, Lav Cemetery reflects Sarajevo’s religious diversity, with Christian, Jewish, and Muslim graves side by side. The Jewish Cemetery, one of the largest in Europe, dates back to the 16th century and offers a panoramic view of the city, though its gravestones still bear the marks of war damage. 

These cemeteries are not just places of mourning—they are open-air history lessons, reminders of Sarajevo’s resilience, and symbols of both tragedy and survival. 

Vitez

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We drove 1 hour north of Sarajevo to Kristal d.o.o. Vitez to pick up our new port window.  Let's hope it is ready!

And after about a 20 minutes wait, it came out! Now it is in the car and the next worry is that it is going to fit in the hole! 

"Sometimes I wonder if my sailboat is thinking about me too."