October 2023

Stopped at the top of a very high hill to get some of these photos. We followed the waterfront path out of town, passed local parks, fishing boats, and a few small beach areas before the road opened up toward the quieter stretch near Büyük. Also stopped at Sehit Fethi Bey Parki. Love these coastal bike rides we are lucky enough to be able to do.

Once we returned to the boat and put the bikes away, we moved to gas dock for pump out – our last one. Went back to anchorage in the same spot, just as darkness was setting in.

Sailing Fethiye to Clifnik

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Turkey
October 2, 2023
29°

Fethiye to Clifnik Koyu - 44.7nm

We left Fethiye at 730 as there was supposed to be some wind in the morning. Ended up motoring for about 6 hours before we caught some wind in the last few hours.

Anchored in a beautiful spot and got to go swimming for the first time in a while. We did not end up going into shore.

Ciftlik to Bozukkale

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Turkey
October 3, 2023
28°

Ciftlik Koyu to Bozzukkali Koyu --16.4nm

It was quite a boring passage- motored all the way as there was no wind.

Went back to the dock at The Sailors Restaurant. It is kind of nice going back to the same place so you know where you are going.

Sailing Bozzukale to Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 4, 2023
28°

Bozzukale to Orhaniye - 26.8nm

Started the day with a Greek coffee at Sailors House Restaurant and a visit with Whisky, the cute cocker spaniel.

Walked around the grounds a bit, saw some cows, goats and old rocks.

Left Bozukkale, everyone has been super nice here.

Was only 20 miles to Orhaniye but took all day as wind died and we kept sailing going 3-4 knots for hours, it was very relaxing tho!!

Anchored in the bay in 30 feet of water, it is so calm here it is like a pond. There is a sandbar and lots of day trippers coming to walk on it.

Kate from sv Intrepid Bear sent me her Dad's contact info as he lives here so we are meeting him on Friday at the hotel.

Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 5, 2023
27°

Had an amazing sleep. It's so calm in the anchorage.

Went into shore to walk around and check out the town.

Walked down a back street, there are so many fruit trees everywhere. We saw: pomegranates, figs, key limes, olives, prickly pears, cherries, blackberries and quinces. They are all unpruned and falling into the street. Amazing.

Hordes of day trippers from Marmaris coming here in jeep tours. They come to see the sandbank and they have 2 poor camels here for the tourists to ride.

We walked to the Marti Marina, it's one of the nicest marinas I have seen in Turkey. We stopped at the yacht club for a coffee and a tea and they ended up giving it to us as a treat!

Walked back to Palmiye and stopped in to have a late lunch of pizza and Turkish pasta. Had a nice chat to Mehmet, the owner. He gave us some grapes that were growing abundent on the trellis above us. He said we could use the showers, and the pool.

Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 6, 2023
26°

Left in the morning before all the jeeps and gullets arrived and walked the sandbar with the dingy. Chris swam back to the boat and I took the dingy, tried to row but it was not possible, but hey I wanted to try.

Did some trip planning. Might change where we haul the boat.

Went for a very rural walk, it was actually very relaxing until we came upon a concrete wall across the road!! Lol then Chris picked a prickly pear and got pricks in his hands and eyelid. Came upon a pide restaurant so of course had to stop.

In the evening we met Kate's dad and his wife and their friend at Palmyire. Had a fun evening with them and lots of Raki.

Sailing Orhaniye to Datca

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Turkey
October 7, 2023
27°

Orhaniye to Datça – 22.8nm

Back to Datça, this time with two missions: checking out of Turkey and hunting down the famous almond cookies. Success, we found them! Datça’s almond cookies are a local specialty made with freshly ground almonds, sugar, and egg whites, with a delicate, slightly chewy texture and subtle nutty sweetness, the perfect treat. So yummy!

We met an agent to handle our check-out. When he asked if we were on a sailboat, we said yes, and he admitted that if he had known we were a catamaran, he would have charged us more. How exactly does that work? Just one of those little surprises in the paperwork process!

Along the way, we saw a reminder of Turkey’s unique charm: Anatolian Shepherd Dogs. These massive, impressive dogs are only found in Turkey, and you’re not allowed to take them out of the country, a real Turkish treasure on four legs.

We used up the last of our Turkish cash (still had 70 TRY left, not bad!) and stopped for one last beer in Turkey before heading to check out. Of course, the bar tried to overcharge us, the beers were 90 TRY each, but they tried to make it 220. I'm definietley not going to miss this part of Turkey

All sorted! Checked out, back on the boat for the night, and ready for tomorrow’s sail to Symi. Bye, Turkey, until next time!

Last beer in Turkey - last of being overcharged. Bye Turkey - we still love you!

Sailing Datca to Symi Marina at Pedi

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Greece
October 8, 2023
28°

Datca to Symi Marina at Pedi - 13.1 nm

Left Datca around 10:00am. Sailed very slowly the 12nm to Marina Symi at Pedi, the bay over from the main port.

Had a nice surprise, Steve and Tracy were waiting for us at the dock. However our docking situation was horrendous as the guy refused to give us the starboard mooring line, and that was the one we needed first.

We walked into town, up the very hilly road, then down hundreds of steps into the port.

Then the reverse on the way back.

Found Tracey and Steve at one of the restaurants in town with other cruisers so stopped for a drink and met up with a few other people.

Then we went out for a great Greek meal but had to walk back up the gigantic hill!

Bike around Symi and Thanksgiving dinner

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Greece
October 9, 2023
28

Biked over the mountain and back down to the port to find a turkey for Thanksgiving dinner, bought all the vegetables then Chris had to carry it all in his back back up the mammoth hill.

Thanksgiving dinner tonight on Stray Kitty!

Chorio

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Greece
October 10, 2023
27°

Walked from the marina up the hilly roads to the Chorio. Saw the Church of Our Lady, the old castle. Unfortunately the museum was closed on Tuesdays.

Chorio (aka Ano Symi) from a stony 500 steps stairway. The locals call it Kali Strata (good way!) with a wonderful walkway under the trees and a breathtaking view over Gialos. The charming colourful houses with their tiled roofs and the small alleys create a stunning locale. The interior of the houses are also of great interest; elaborately decorated ceilings, skylights, neoclassical decor on doors and windows as well as pebble stone floors are just some of the details you’ll see on these beautiful man made structures.

The highest spot of the town is Kastro (= castle) on the west, the remnants of a castle built by the knights of St John (14th c.). In its interior you will see the church Panagia (Virgin Mary) of Kastro. Then we walked down to the Port, all the way around the clock tower to the other side, over 20,000 steps today and a lot of stairs.

Symi is famous not just for its colorful neoclassical harbor and charming hillside streets, but also for its historic sponge diving and harvesting industry. For centuries, Symi’s divers collected natural sea sponges from the Aegean Sea, using traditional methods passed down through generations. These sponges were highly prized across Europe for their softness, durability, and natural absorbency. The island became a major center for sponge commerce, and many families’ livelihoods depended on it. Today, while modern synthetic alternatives exist, you can still find shops selling natural Symi sponges, often handcrafted and sold as souvenirs, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive.

Thought we would take the bus back, got to the stop right at 3:00pm and the 3:00 bus is cancelled! , they are on their winter schedule now. So walk all the way back up the stairs back to the marina.

Took the bikes for a small ride around the bay to use some batteries before putting them away then went back to the top of the hill for dinner and drinks with sv Dusk, sv Arte, and sv Sagitta. Finally meeting some other cruisers!!

I was just going to sleep when I felt something on my foot. I kicked and then heard a small cry. It was the marina kitten that sv Sagitta had been taking care of for weeks! It hopped right info bed with me! Lol

If it had been ever 2 more minutes I would have been fast asleep and it might have stayed all night. I brought it outside and it walked all over the boat, we let it sleep in the cockpit and it was gone by morning.

Symi Marina at Pedi to Panormitis

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Greece
October 11, 2023
27°

Symi Marina at Pedi, Greece to Panormitis, Symi Island - 10nm

Tried to sail but no wind. Anchored in this very pretty bay. Four other boats from the marina came here too.

Went ashore to see the Holy Monastery of Archangel Michael, the museum and the church.

The Holy Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis: The village of Panormitis, to the southwest of the main town, hosts the main monastery of Simi island, a monastery dedicated to the Archangel Michael. The exact construction date is unknown but, according to an old manuscript, it existed in the 15th century. It is said that this monastery was built on the ruins of an ancient temple, but this has not been proved.

The Monastery of Panormitis is tied with the Christian faith of the Symiot people. The interior is covered with wall paintings from the Byzantine period, made by the native hagiographers Nikitas and Michaelos Karakostidis. The image of the Archangel Michael is depicted in one of the frescoes. There are also nice wooden carved icons, most of which are gifts from the pilgrims.

The monastery also includes two museums in its yard. The first museum hosts silver icons, pontificals, Russian epitaphs, ecclesiastical vessels, and various religious items. The other museum displays an exhibition of folk culture, including items relevant to fishing, agriculture and shepherding. The Monastery of Archangel Michael also hosts a library with Byzantine manuscripts of religious, historical and philosophical content.

Some books date from the 16th and the 18th century. Furthermore, a gallery includes paintings of the monastery and its surrounding landscape. The Monastery of Archangel Michael in Panormitis village celebrates on November 8th and a religious festival is held every year with a lot of pilgrims coming to the island.

Found a great wood fired bakery, bought a bunch of treats and back to SK for tea with sv Dusk.

Met a Bavarian couple on Sv Opua, invited them over for happy hour.

Sailing Symi to Tilos

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Greece
October 13, 2023
25°

Panormitis, Symi to Tilos - 24.7nm

Tried hard to sail but it was fruitless as there was no wind.

Arrived at Tilos and anchored in front of the beach alon with Sv Dusk. There are hardly any boats here. Unfortunatley we had a port head issue that needed immediate attention. Fortunatley, our captain can pretty much fix anything and had it back into working condition in no time.

Amazingly, ancient Tilos is best known for its population of midget elephants. Full size elephants are thought to have found their way here 6 million years ago when the island was still attached to Asia Minor. When cut off by the rising waters of the Mediterranean, the elephants were left with no natural predators and a diminished food supply, and shrank in size. They became extinct around 4000 BC. A large cash of their bones was discovered in 1974 in the Harkadio Cave.

Livadia

Livadia is a photogenic jumble of whitewashed houses huddled around the north end of Adios Stefanos Bay. Little happens here -- a cat yawns, a fisherman falls asleep over his glass of ouzo... and that's precisely its charm tranquility.

Mikro Horio, Tilos

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Car Tour Day! Stop 1. Mikro Horio

We had breakfast at the bakery in the waterfront (not very good). Then found a car to rent for the day.

This was our first stop- Mikro Horio - the old abandoned capital of Tilos. First settled by the Knights of St John in the 15th century and the 220 houses were inhabited continuously until 1940 when many of the residents left the village and moved to Livadia, at the eastern coast, taking with them the doors, the windows and the roofs of their old houses!

Elephant Paleontological Exhibition

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Road Trip - Stop #2

Once upon a time on Tílos, an island belonging to the Dodecanese, there used to live… elephants! A species of pygmy elephants survived on the island until about 3500 BC and are actually considered to be the last elephants that have ever lived in Europe!

It is truly amazing, yet true: if you could set foot on the island 50.000 years ago, you would see them approaching the island from the east, as at that time Tilos used to be part of Asia Minor, from which it was separated only 12.000 years ago.

The elephants were too many to fit on an island as small as Tilos; in order to survive they had to adjust to new conditions of living “transforming themselves” into dwarfs with a height ranging from 120-150 cm.

Due to the volcanic eruptions on Santorini and Nisyros everything, Tilos, just like all the other islands, ended up covered in volcanic lava.

The excavations at Charkadio cave, located about 2 km to the south of the village of Megalo Chorio, have brought to light skeletal remains of forty dwarf elephant as well as fossils of animals, including turtles and deer. Scientists believe that those dwarf elephants lived on the island 45,000 years ago and that they disappeared about 4,000 years ago.

Megalo Horio

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Road Trip Stop #3

This beautiful town has kept intact its traditional character and layout. The village is small with a few modern amenities. It has a population of 250 inhabitants who are involved in farming and agriculture. Stone houses are built on the slopes of Agios Stefanos hill, under the ancient town and the Medieval Castle that rise over the settlement.

The Medieval Castle was built in the 15th century by the Knights of Saint John. Its location offered a view to the port of Eristos and Agios Antonios as well as the neighbouring island of Nisyros. Today, most of its ruins can be seen at the top and remains of the church of Saint Taxiarches. At the centre of Megalo Chorio you will find the churches of Agia Triada and Panagia Theotokissa.

Agios Antonios

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Road Trip Stop #4

Agios Antonios is a tiny fishing harbour on the north side of the island of Tilos in Greece. It’s the kind of quiet place many sailors stumble upon while exploring the Dodecanese, just a small quay, a few fishing boats, and a couple of simple cafés or tavernas right by the water. The harbour is small, usually only fitting a handful of boats, and the surrounding village is little more than a few houses, a chapel, and places serving coffee or fresh fish caught that morning.

Life here moves slowly. Fishermen come and go with their small boats, locals sit outside the café drinking Greek coffee, and visitors stop in briefly before continuing along the coast. It’s not really a tourist destination, more of a quiet stop where you can stretch your legs, have a coffee by the water, and watch the small harbour life unfold, whch is exactly what we did!

Agios Panteleimon Monastery Agios Panteleimon Monastery

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Greece
October 14, 2023
25°

Road Trip Stop #5

Scariest drive of my life to get here. It is located at a height of 270m on the slope of the hill Kryallos.

This historical monastery is the most significant pilgrimage of Tilos and one of the most important reverence points in the Dodecanese.

Built between 1470 and 1480 and with a fortified architecture it is surrounded by a powerful stone enclosure with a three-storey defensive tower on its southeast end.

Its church is in cruciform type with a dome. Dating back to the late 15th century, it met two renovation phases in 1703 and in 1912 respectively. The older hagiographies are located in the nave, where a 15th century representation of the monastery founder, the monk Ionas, stands out. Furthermore, worth noted are its wooden iconostasis of 1714, the wall paintings of Pantokrator on the dome and the Holy Trinity on the apse, works of the painter Grigorios of Symi since 1776.

In the enclosure the legendary cypress that the abbot of the monastery Ieremias planted in 1800 dominates, while other grand trees, plane trees and walnut trees lay their thick shadow over the surrounding area. In 1824 the northern section of the monastery cells was renovated and in 1843 the coating of the courtyard with a mosaic masterpiece of Rhodian style took place.

The monastery lies in a spectacular and, to say the least, wild landscape in the north-western part of the island. The drive to the monastery is at least as worth-seeing as the monastery itself.

Previously almost 15 monks lived here, but nowadays it is uninhabited.

Plaka

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Greece
October 14, 2023
25°

Road Trip Stop #6

If you hear about a beach on Tilos with proud peacocks and peahens that roam free, then this beach is no other than Plaka, a small bay approximately 4 km from Agios Antonios. Small pebbles, idyllic waters, complete serenity, and a few trees for shade combine to create an exotic setting on this remote Greek island and, understandably, Plaka becomes a free-camping attraction in the summer.

Eristos Beach

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Greece
October 14, 2023
25°

Road Trip Stop #7

Our friends anchored here so I was interested to see it.

It is quite secluded and situated a mere 3 kms away from Megalo Horio. There are a couple of places you can stay at as well as a camping site. There is a cantina on the beach but everything was closed down for the season. We did manage to find the only restaurant in the area and sat down for a long lunch.

Sailing from Tilos to Kos

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Greece
October 15, 2023
24°

Tilos to Kos - 32.4nm

We had to say good bye to sv Dusk as they are heading in the other direction for the winter season.

We had a pretty good sail. Pretty good sail. Managed to sail about half the time, then motor, then the wind picked up to about 13 knots right on the nose as we headed into the Kos Anchorage.

Kos Town is the capital and the main port of the island. It is built on the north eastern side of Kos, around a vast area full of greenery and lush vegetation. The first inhabitants arrived in Kos during the prehistoric years and remains of that time lie around the port while constitute a major attraction of the island nowadays.

Kos Town combines various architectural styles from the ancient, medieval and modern years. Venetian buildings and well-preserved houses stand amidst shady plantation and lush green areas whereas the wide alleys create a relaxing and charming atmosphere in the town. A walk in the historic streets of the town reveals some of the most beautiful creations of ancient civilizations and the way of life during those years.

Some pics:

Lots to see in Kos: the harbour,

the Old Town of Kos,

Platia Eleftherias (Freedom square)

Laid out in 1933, Platia Eleftherias (Freedom square) the main square of the city of Kos is quite literally enclosed by history.

Kos Municipal Market of Kos (Μercato delle Erbe), the impressive Italian building is situated in Eleftherias Square (Kos town), the central square of the island, among other historic buildings.

Ancient Agora, Kos

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October 16, 2023
25°

The best thing about Kos? All these places are FREE to get in!

Ancient Agora (Ancient Market) is an imposing excavation area where a number of temples, baths, and houses with remaining mosaics, columns, and other pieces of construction belonging to several periods have been found. So, in this case, the market has a lot more to reveal that a simple marketplace. The Ancient Market is a large excavation area, with many interesting historical and architectural findings. For example, ancient Market has part of a wall made of large stones, that counts on 80 meters long by 2,5 meters high.

From the external side of this wall, there used to begin an Eastern arm for the harbor protection. This arm was also taken advantage of in architectural terms, as it was used for supporting a colonnade of 50 meters length with a row of precincts. These columns date around the 4th and the 3rd centuries BC and they were partly restored during the Roman period.

As it was customary in old European constructions, the remains of the columns were then covered by a basilica during the early days of Christianity, which included a baptistery that was named the seven steps of Agios Ioannis. On the other hand, outside this wall, there were some buildings related to the harbor operation, some of them indispensable and others not so much, including some churches.

The ancient Market itself was a market that took advantage of its location next to the harbor, as it was ideal for trading and for general movement, to the point that Agora used to be center of Kos. Some of the most recent findings are 80 meters wide by 300 meters length buildings, with a large stairway that still keeps their impressiveness, leading to an inner yard. There are also two restored columns that give the idea of a portico.

Roman Odeon of Kos

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Greece
October 16, 2023
25°

The Roman Odeon of Kos, Dodecanese: The ancient Odeon of Kos was built by the Romans around the 2nd and the 3rd centuries. It was found in the early 20th century along with the Gymnasium and the Roman baths, all of them in generally good condition. These constructions are placed on the east and west of the Casa Romana, which is part of the Ancient Town and its several excavation areas. One of the main advantages of this complex is that it concentrates many important places to the point that they can be comfortably visited during just one walk, without having to travel across distant points and without wasting time or spending money.

Regarding the Roman Odeon, although it has been restored, its first nine rows of seats are still the original marble ones that were occupied the important citizens of the time. After a landing, the Odeon has other five rows of seats made of granite, destined for regular people. It currently has a total number of 18 rows of seats. Some other parts that were also found in good condition were the floor, the wings, and the orchestra pit. In addition, several statues have been discovered as well.

Faithful to their tradition and ideology, the Romans built the Odeon at Kos, as well as some others across their Empire. In fact, their famous amphitheaters were the true centers of entertaining in Rome, being the Coliseum the largest one, able to seat a total of 50.000 people. Basically, people went to the amphitheaters like the Odeon to see fights between slaves, criminals, prisoners of war, and sometimes between them and wild animals. This tradition began with the idea of entertaining funerals and consisted of one man fighting another.

However, there were so many people that crowded together to watch these fights that it was necessary to build some special places to hold them. In fact, this became so popular that there used to be many schools offering special training to turn ordinary men into Gladiators. Of course, this was in part used by the Romans as a distraction in order to keep people happy and avoid them to confront them in political terms.

Although the Romans usually receive the credits for these kinds of inventions, they were highly influenced by one of their dominated nations: the Greek, from which they took many tips; for example in terms of light and sound at theatre plays. For these occasions, the Greeks built special precincts with semi-circular rows of sittings, where the actors would perform outdoors. They were very related to this type of art, as they were the pioneers of the tragedy concept, elaborating intricate myths that were expressed in many tales.

Therefore, in the frame of the rich cultural exchange that Rome and Greece shared, Romans took many important facts of Greek culture like the ones just mentioned and used them for their benefit. The available remains of these times in our days are the ruins of these places, such as the Roman Odeon at Kos, which deserves to be explored and appreciated as a living piece of History that captured the ancient splendor, and kept itself in very good conditions.

Western Archeological Zone

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Greece
October 16, 2023
25°

Unfortunately during our visit, this site was closed but we can still see it from the road.

Opposite the ancient theater extends an exceptionally important archaeological area (zone), part of the city that was abandoned in the Middle Ages, during the time of the Knights of St. John. When it was excavated, significant island structures and monuments came to light once again.

Harbor Baths: Constructed in the 3rd century BC, the baths consisted of a circular room off of which led porticoes lined with special bricks for heating, as well as ovens built under vaulted sections most probably for the same purpose.

The Northern Baths: Dating from the 3rd century AD, and likely located adjacent to the Hellenistic period gymnasium, the Northern Baths consisted of a building containing a long hall, parts of which have collapsed.

The Western Baths: Built in the 3rd century AD, the Western Baths were used as an early Christian basilica following the 469 AD earthquake. The building is trapezoidal in shape, while on the side of the structure a room was found whose floor was decorated in one of the largest and most impressive mosaics found on Kos.

Kos. Stadium: Built during the first half of the 2nd century BC, the stadium is located facing the chapel of Agia Anna, is approximately 180 meters long and 30 meters wide, and boasts both Doric and Ionic architectural elements.

Ksiston or Ksistos Road of the Gymnasium: The impressive detail of this 2nd century BC structure, located just south of the Stadium, bears witness to the grandeur of Kos during the Hellenistic period.

Paved Road (Cardo): The road was constructed in the 3rd century AD of local amygdalopetra (a kind of travertine limestone), and one can see the tracks left by the vehicles of that time even today.

The Limestone Portico: East of the Cardo is the Limestone Portico, a structure of the 4th and 3rd centuries BC, which was added to during the Roman period. The Forica of the Baths or Nymphaeum: A structure made using cast masonry dating from the 3rd century AD, it was excavated in 1938 and subsequently restored in 1940. The building has remarkable flooring made of marble and mosaics in geometric patterns, while a well stands in the center of the courtyard. The 469 AD earthquake did significant damage to the structure.

The road of the Porticos (Decumanus): One of the arched streets like those constructed in many cities of Asia Minor and Eastern Africa during the Roman Imperial period. Its tiles were made of local amygdalopetra (a kind of travertine limestone), prasinopetra or green limestone. Residential zone with houses containing mosaics and other finds: A characteristic feature of these houses is their central courtyard and small latrine, while the homes bear traces of reconstruction of older Hellenistic houses destroyed in the 142 AD earthquake. The wall construction technique of the time is evident and of special interest, as are the mosaics decorating the floors that date from the 3rd century AD.

PLANE TREE OF HIPPOCRATES

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October 16, 2023
25°

At the south end of the harbour, where it meets Neratzia Castle, you’ll find the Plane Tree of Hippocrates. Legend has it Hippocrates – the father of medicine – lectured his students underneath this tree.

Despite its striking size, this tree is only 500 years old so it’s not quite the real thing, but it’s a nice spot nonetheless.

Castle of the Knights of Saint John

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October 16, 2023
25°

Neratzia Castle was build by the crusaders to guard the entrance of the harbour in the 14th century and it’s one of the first things you’ll see if you arrive by ferry. It’s impressive from the outside, and inside the walls are the open plan remains of the inner castle.

Its strong fortified walls were used to protect the inhabitants of Kos from the constant piratic invasions.

Unfortunately Neratzia was damaged in the 2017 earthquake and the interior remains closed to the public.

A stone bridge connects the fortifications to the main town, and underneath this runs the iconic Palm Tree Avenue.

Moved from Anchorage to Kos Marina.

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October 17, 2023
23°

The anchorage was becoming untenable with the winds and the ferry wake so we got a spot at the Kos Marina. We pulled up the anchor in 17 knots of wind and I was having trouble getting it up. Turns out I pulled up a chain on the anchor. Chris, got it off then we continued into the slip still at 17 knots of side wind.

I give Chris the Catamaran Helmsman of the Year Award 🏆🏆🏆

Kos

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Greece
October 18, 2023
23°

Spent the morning working on my computer in the marina office workspace while Chris worked on the boat.

Went for a walk to the end of the beach where the wind surfers and kiters are. Very windy!!

Kos

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October 19, 2023
22°

Biking Around Kos Island

We took the bikes off the boat and headed out to explore part of Kos. The island is fairly flat along the north coast, which makes it great for cycling, and there are bike paths and quiet roads that run for kilometres along the shoreline.

One of our first stops was a Black Sand Beach, a reminder that parts of Kos have volcanic origins. The dark sand gets incredibly hot under the sun, and the contrast with the bright blue Aegean water makes it a pretty striking stretch of coastline.

Not long after that we stopped for a coffee at Pura Vida, a relaxed little spot. It was the perfect break from the heat of the ride, sitting in the shade with a cold drink.

We kept riding until we reached Paralia Tigaki. It’s a long sandy beach just outside the village of Tigaki, but it’s definitely built for tourism. Rows and rows of beach chairs and umbrellas stretched along the sand. Not really our style, a bit too crowded and commercial, but clearly a popular holiday spot.

Further along we came across Happy Flamingo Beach, a small and colourful beach club that looked much more laid-back. With bright seating, shaded areas, and people relaxing with drinks by the water, it had a fun vibe. We didn’t stay long but it looked like a great place to spend an afternoon.

One of the most interesting parts of the ride was passing the Tigaki Salt Pan. This huge salt flat sits between Tigaki and Marmari and covers nearly a million square metres. Most of the basin actually sits slightly below sea level. In the past it was used for salt production, but today it’s more of a natural wetland. Reeds and bamboo grow thick along the seaward side, forming a natural barrier and providing habitat for birds. Bird watching has become quite popular and many come to observe the migrating birds as well as the rich local fauna, and even some rare species. The flamingoes are an impressive sight and have made the place famous by their presence.

We found a restaurant to stop at for lunch on the way back. I love days like this!

Sailing Kos to Pserimos, Vathy Anch

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Greece
October 20, 2023
26°

Kos Marina to Pserimos-Vathey anchorage- 8.4nm

Vathy, Pserimos

A 2 hour motor with no wind. Amazing blue, clear water. This just might be my last swim of the season!!!

Walk over to Pserimos Harbour

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October 20, 2023
26

Took the dingy into the beach and hiked over the hill to Pserimos Harbour and the town of Avlakia.

Pserimos is one of the smallest islands in the Dodecanese island group and it belongs to the administration of the neighboring Kalymnos.

It is also called Capari (Capers), inspired by the aromatic plant that grows on the island.

Pserimos as about 30 permanent residents and basic tourist infrastructure for summer visitors. The northern part is called "Akra Vassiliki" and the southern part "Akra Roussa".

Avlakia, Pserimos

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Greece
October 20, 2023
26°

Walked fo very end of pier.

Pserimos is a tiny island, with an area of only 15 square kilometers.

It has one main village, Avlakia, which is the port of the island. You can find tavernas, cafes and mini markets, but no pharmacy or a medical clinic.

Also, there is no ATM on the island, so make sure you have cash.

Sailing Pserimos to Port of Kalymnos

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Greece
October 21, 2023
25

Pserimos to Port of Kalymnos - 11.4nm

It was another 2 hour motor from Pserimos. We are on the town quay, have heard horror stories about the ferry wake from the large Blue Star ferry so hopefully it will be okay 😬

Kalymnos island is an attractive island with a population of about 12,000 inhabitants, which are mostly living in the capital and main port, Pothia.

Kalymnos is famous for its sponge fishing industry and almost all the old men of the island were one diving for fishing sponges. Since this industry has fallen because Mediterranean sponges suffered from a viral disease in 1986 and a lot of them died, as the economy of the island did.

Kalymnos is also a rising holiday destination due to another fact: its landscape and geology are ideal for climbing. This has brought to the island a new kind of active tourism. The rocky mountains and interesting caves of Kalymnos are also continually explored. The most famous is the Cave of the Seven Virgins. The late tourism has helped a bit the island and its inhabitants, even if many beautiful coasts of the island are still uncrowded during high season.

This gives to the island, along with its beautiful landscape and beaches, a particular atmosphere that charms every visitor. Because of the low level of tourism, Kalymnos is still very authentic and its inhabitants are very friendly and hospitable.

Kalymnos, known as the sponge diver island, has beautiful architecture. Pothia, the capital and the port of the island, is considered as one of the most picturesque towns in the Dodecanese, renowned for its naval history and trade.

Many of the houses that climb the hill follow the Neoclassical style, while other houses have elements from Italian architecture. Among the most beautiful buildings that were built during the 19th and 20th century is the Town Hall standing in the heart of the town. Equally interesting is the Metropolis church and the remains of the ancient city on top of the hill, including the Venetian castle of Chryssohera.

Finally found an ouzerie that gives you food when you order a drink!

Vathy, Kalymnos

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Greece
October 22, 2023
25°

Kalymnos Road Trip

1st stop - Vathy, Kalymnos

We were going to anchor here but chose not to because we heard it was very narrow

Vathy is located in the middle of an arid and mountainous site, 13 km north east of Pothia, the capital of Kalymnos. The lovely settlement of Vathy is located at the most fertile spot of the island. Its lovely houses stand on the slopes of two hills while a small part of the settlement lies on a verdant valley that extends to the natural gulf. There you will see a picturesque port filled with some fishing boats and tourboats which make daily trips to some of the most interesting sites in Kalymnos.

This small oasis offers a few accommodations, local taverns and shops. One can see several sightseeings in close distance such as the castle ruins, the Monastery of the Virgin and a couple of caves. For swimming the best spot is the beautiful cove of Vathy and Akti.

Emporius, Kalymnos

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Greece
October 22, 2023
26°

Kalymnos Road Trip

2nd stop - Emporius, Kalymnos

Checked out the anchorage and met some other cruisers heading to Mytellini for the winter.

The picturesque village of Emborio is located 24 km north west of Pothia, the beautiful capital of Kalymnos. Emporio is the last village of the island which lies at the end of the main road. About 70 inhabitants live permanently in the village, most of whom are engaged in cattle breeding and farming. In ancient years, the village had been the commercial center.

The small and quiet village displays beautiful little white houses and narrow alleys that you can walk down.

A lovely blue domed church stands at the center of the village with an impressive bell tower overlooking the blue sea. A few types of accommodations are available in Emporio as well as some nice cafes and local taverns. A couple of pristine beaches located within a short walking distance from the village offer a refreshing swim and a unique scenery.

Palionissos, Kalymnos

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Greece
October 22, 2023
26°

Kalymnos Road Trip

3rd stop - Palionissos, Kalymnos

The drive from Emporios to Palionissos was a heart stopper! But we made it there and back.

Saw lots of rock climbers on scooters parked alongside the road.

Saw the anchorage.

Ended up spending over 2 hours at Palionissos Paradise Tavern, eating lunch, talking to Nickolas and looking at his photos albums.

Castle of Chora, Kalymnos

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Greece
October 22, 2023
26°

Kalymnos Road Trip

4th stop - Castle of Chora, Kalymnos

Last stop of the day before returning the rental car.

Chora was the capital of Kalymnos for centuries, and was deliberately built away from the sea in an effort to avoid the pirates that plundered the Mediterranean for many years.

The Castle of Chora or Great Castle is located at the northeast of the settlement of Chora, on the top of a steep mountain mass, at an altitude of about 255 meters above sea level. Powerful walls surround the perimeter of the area of the hill, enclosing an area of about 30,000 square meters. The densely built settlement is estimated that could accommodate about 1,200-1,500 inhabitants. Human activity in the area, according to various findings from the soil surface, dates back to prehistoric times (findings of classical and roman period were also discovered in the same area).

The first fortifications were probably constructed in the 11th century and later on during the governance of Knight Fantino Quirini (1433-1453) large scale reconstruction operations were realized which gave to the fortification of the castle its current form. After the terrible earthquake of 1492/3 the Grand Magister Pierre d 'Aubusson (of the Order of the Knights of Saint John the Baptist) decided to reinforce Castle of Chora (according to the chivalric files located in Malta the castle was ready in 1495). In the early 16th century, the Grand Magister Fabrizio del Carretto, built in the middle of the eastern wall a polygonal tower (Tower G), for firearms. In the same period were built the two large public cisterns in the center of the settlement and double marble coats of arms were placed on three buildings (Tower G and two public cisterns) with that of Carretto above and those of Castellan Knights below.

Inside the Castle ten churches are found, in the interior of which wall paintings of the late 15th- early 16th century are still to be found. The houses have rectangular or irregular floor plan and they are adjacent to each other due to lack of space. The majority has small dimensions and some of them were built-in to the wall of the fortification. For the preparation of food and for heating there were fireplaces. Many houses had their own cisterns for collecting rainwater and in the center of the castle were built two particularly large public water tanks. Within the castle were two olive-presses for the production of olive-oil to cover their daily needs.

The Castle of Chora constituted the built-up center of medieval Kalymnos, until the beginning of the 18th century (in the Castle also lived the Turkish Agha of Kalymnos), when the settlement of Chora was developed.

Sailing Kalymnos to Leros

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Greece
October 23, 2023
27°

Kalymnos Town Quay to L akki, Leros - 18.6nm

Bought new fishing gear before leaving Kalymnos Motored the whole way, motor sailed for about an hour with just the jib.

Anchored- very quiet so far. Lots of other cruising boats here, including a Canadian boat. Found a pizza restaurant for dinner.

Municipality of Leros

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Greece
October 26, 2023
26°

We went on a hike with with Eva and Mario who we met in Symi. They are staying at Leros Marina for the winter, while we will be hauling the boat and staying at Artemis Leros Boatyard for the winter. We stopped for a drink and to feed the plethora stray kities of course!

Leros

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Greece
October 27, 2023
26°

We did a bike ride 8 km loop up to the top of the mountain to a dirt road.

sv Flying Fish Peter and Sarah came into the harbour. They came over for happy hour, and we didn't end up making it out for dinner!

Sailing Lakki to Agia Marina, Leros

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Greece
October 28, 2023
26°

Lakki to Agia Marina, Leros - 12.4nm

Today was Greek Oxi Day. Ohi Day (often spelled Oxi Day) is a national holiday in Greece celebrated on October 28. It commemorates the moment in 1940 when Greek Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas refused an ultimatum from Benito Mussolini of Italy, who demanded that Italian forces be allowed to occupy strategic areas of Greece during World War II. Metaxas’ response, remembered simply as “Oxi,” meaning “No” in Greek, led to the Greco‑Italian War when Italian troops invaded from Albania.

Today the day is celebrated across Greece with parades, flags, and ceremonies that honor the country’s resistance and national pride.

Sailed to Agia Marina. Tried anchoring in front of the town, moved over the other bay, tried 4 times, moved back to town. In the end, anchored 7 times! Exhausting!

Leros Castle and Prophet Elias Church

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Greece
October 29, 2023
24°

Hiking up to the Castle of Panteli on Leros was one of the highlights of our visit. The 14th-century fortress, built by the Knights of Saint John, sits high above the village of Panteli, Leros and once protected the island from pirates and invaders sailing through the Aegean Sea. The hike up is steep but worth it for the incredible views over the harbor and surrounding islands. Near the top we also stopped at Prophet Elias Church, Leros, a small mountaintop chapel where the quiet atmosphere and panoramic scenery made the climb even more rewarding.

Panteli, Leros

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Greece
October 29, 2023
25°

After the church, we continued our hike down to Panteli.

Panteli, Leros is one of the most picturesque villages on the island of Leros. This small fishing village sits along a sheltered bay and is known for its colorful fishing boats, waterfront tavernas, and relaxed seaside atmosphere. The village is built around a natural harbor where traditional wooden boats still bob in the water.