October 2023

Stopped at the top of a very high hill to get some of these photos. We followed the waterfront path out of town, passed local parks, fishing boats, and a few small beach areas before the road opened up toward the quieter stretch near Büyük. Also stopped at Sehit Fethi Bey Parki. Love these coastal bike rides we are lucky enough to be able to do.

Once we returned to the boat and put the bikes away, we moved to gas dock for pump out – our last one. Went back to anchorage in the same spot, just as darkness was setting in.

Sailing Fethiye to Clifnik

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Turkey
October 2, 2023
29°

Fethiye to Clifnik Koyu - 44.7nm

We left Fethiye at 730 as there was supposed to be some wind in the morning. Ended up motoring for about 6 hours before we caught some wind in the last few hours.

Anchored in a beautiful spot and got to go swimming for the first time in a while. We did not end up going into shore.

Ciftlik to Bozukkale

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Turkey
October 3, 2023
28°

Ciftlik Koyu to Bozzukkali Koyu --16.4nm

It was quite a boring passage- motored all the way as there was no wind.

Went back to the dock at The Sailors Restaurant. It is kind of nice going back to the same place so you know where you are going.

Sailing Bozzukale to Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 4, 2023
28°

Bozzukale to Orhaniye - 26.8nm

Started the day with a Greek coffee at Sailors House Restaurant and a visit with Whisky, the cute cocker spaniel.

Walked around the grounds a bit, saw some cows, goats and old rocks.

Left Bozukkale, everyone has been super nice here.

Was only 20 miles to Orhaniye but took all day as wind died and we kept sailing going 3-4 knots for hours, it was very relaxing tho!!

Anchored in the bay in 30 feet of water, it is so calm here it is like a pond. There is a sandbar and lots of day trippers coming to walk on it.

Kate from sv Intrepid Bear sent me her Dad's contact info as he lives here so we are meeting him on Friday at the hotel.

Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 5, 2023
27°

Had an amazing sleep. It's so calm in the anchorage.

Went into shore to walk around and check out the town.

Walked down a back street, there are so many fruit trees everywhere. We saw: pomegranates, figs, key limes, olives, prickly pears, cherries, blackberries and quinces. They are all unpruned and falling into the street. Amazing.

Hordes of day trippers from Marmaris coming here in jeep tours. They come to see the sandbank and they have 2 poor camels here for the tourists to ride.

We walked to the Marti Marina, it's one of the nicest marinas I have seen in Turkey. We stopped at the yacht club for a coffee and a tea and they ended up giving it to us as a treat!

Walked back to Palmiye and stopped in to have a late lunch of pizza and Turkish pasta. Had a nice chat to Mehmet, the owner. He gave us some grapes that were growing abundent on the trellis above us. He said we could use the showers, and the pool.

Orhaniye

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Turkey
October 6, 2023
26°

Left in the morning before all the jeeps and gullets arrived and walked the sandbar with the dingy. Chris swam back to the boat and I took the dingy, tried to row but it was not possible, but hey I wanted to try.

Did some trip planning. Might change where we haul the boat.

Went for a very rural walk, it was actually very relaxing until we came upon a concrete wall across the road!! Lol then Chris picked a prickly pear and got pricks in his hands and eyelid. Came upon a pide restaurant so of course had to stop.

In the evening we met Kate's dad and his wife and their friend at Palmyire. Had a fun evening with them and lots of Raki.

Sailing Orhaniye to Datca

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Turkey
October 7, 2023
27°

Orhaniye to Datça – 22.8nm

Back to Datça, this time with two missions: checking out of Turkey and hunting down the famous almond cookies. Success, we found them! Datça’s almond cookies are a local specialty made with freshly ground almonds, sugar, and egg whites, with a delicate, slightly chewy texture and subtle nutty sweetness, the perfect treat. So yummy!

We met an agent to handle our check-out. When he asked if we were on a sailboat, we said yes, and he admitted that if he had known we were a catamaran, he would have charged us more. How exactly does that work? Just one of those little surprises in the paperwork process!

Along the way, we saw a reminder of Turkey’s unique charm: Anatolian Shepherd Dogs. These massive, impressive dogs are only found in Turkey, and you’re not allowed to take them out of the country, a real Turkish treasure on four legs.

We used up the last of our Turkish cash (still had 70 TRY left, not bad!) and stopped for one last beer in Turkey before heading to check out. Of course, the bar tried to overcharge us, the beers were 90 TRY each, but they tried to make it 220. I'm definietley not going to miss this part of Turkey

All sorted! Checked out, back on the boat for the night, and ready for tomorrow’s sail to Symi. Bye, Turkey, until next time!

Last beer in Turkey - last of being overcharged. Bye Turkey - we still love you!

Sailing Datca to Symi Marina at Pedi

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Greece
October 8, 2023
28°

Datca to Symi Marina at Pedi - 13.1 nm

Left Datca around 10:00am. Sailed very slowly the 12nm to Marina Symi at Pedi, the bay over from the main port.

Had a nice surprise, Steve and Tracy were waiting for us at the dock. However our docking situation was horrendous as the guy refused to give us the starboard mooring line, and that was the one we needed first.

We walked into town, up the very hilly road, then down hundreds of steps into the port.

Then the reverse on the way back.

Found Tracey and Steve at one of the restaurants in town with other cruisers so stopped for a drink and met up with a few other people.

Then we went out for a great Greek meal but had to walk back up the gigantic hill!

Bike around Symi and Thanksgiving dinner

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Greece
October 9, 2023
28

Biked over the mountain and back down to the port to find a turkey for Thanksgiving dinner, bought all the vegetables then Chris had to carry it all in his back back up the mammoth hill.

Thanksgiving dinner tonight on Stray Kitty!

Chorio

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Greece
October 10, 2023
27°

Walked from the marina up the hilly roads to the Chorio. Saw the Church of Our Lady, the old castle. Unfortunately the museum was closed on Tuesdays.

Chorio (aka Ano Symi) from a stony 500 steps stairway. The locals call it Kali Strata (good way!) with a wonderful walkway under the trees and a breathtaking view over Gialos. The charming colourful houses with their tiled roofs and the small alleys create a stunning locale. The interior of the houses are also of great interest; elaborately decorated ceilings, skylights, neoclassical decor on doors and windows as well as pebble stone floors are just some of the details you’ll see on these beautiful man made structures.

The highest spot of the town is Kastro (= castle) on the west, the remnants of a castle built by the knights of St John (14th c.). In its interior you will see the church Panagia (Virgin Mary) of Kastro. Then we walked down to the Port, all the way around the clock tower to the other side, over 20,000 steps today and a lot of stairs.

Symi is famous not just for its colorful neoclassical harbor and charming hillside streets, but also for its historic sponge diving and harvesting industry. For centuries, Symi’s divers collected natural sea sponges from the Aegean Sea, using traditional methods passed down through generations. These sponges were highly prized across Europe for their softness, durability, and natural absorbency. The island became a major center for sponge commerce, and many families’ livelihoods depended on it. Today, while modern synthetic alternatives exist, you can still find shops selling natural Symi sponges, often handcrafted and sold as souvenirs, keeping a centuries-old tradition alive.

Thought we would take the bus back, got to the stop right at 3:00pm and the 3:00 bus is cancelled! , they are on their winter schedule now. So walk all the way back up the stairs back to the marina.

Took the bikes for a small ride around the bay to use some batteries before putting them away then went back to the top of the hill for dinner and drinks with sv Dusk, sv Arte, and sv Sagitta. Finally meeting some other cruisers!!

I was just going to sleep when I felt something on my foot. I kicked and then heard a small cry. It was the marina kitten that sv Sagitta had been taking care of for weeks! It hopped right info bed with me! Lol

If it had been ever 2 more minutes I would have been fast asleep and it might have stayed all night. I brought it outside and it walked all over the boat, we let it sleep in the cockpit and it was gone by morning.

Symi Marina at Pedi to Panormitis

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Greece
October 11, 2023
27°

Symi Marina at Pedi, Greece to Panormitis, Symi Island - 10nm

Tried to sail but no wind. Anchored in this very pretty bay. Four other boats from the marina came here too.

Went ashore to see the Holy Monastery of Archangel Michael, the museum and the church.

The Holy Monastery of Archangel Michael Panormitis: The village of Panormitis, to the southwest of the main town, hosts the main monastery of Simi island, a monastery dedicated to the Archangel Michael. The exact construction date is unknown but, according to an old manuscript, it existed in the 15th century. It is said that this monastery was built on the ruins of an ancient temple, but this has not been proved.

The Monastery of Panormitis is tied with the Christian faith of the Symiot people. The interior is covered with wall paintings from the Byzantine period, made by the native hagiographers Nikitas and Michaelos Karakostidis. The image of the Archangel Michael is depicted in one of the frescoes. There are also nice wooden carved icons, most of which are gifts from the pilgrims.

The monastery also includes two museums in its yard. The first museum hosts silver icons, pontificals, Russian epitaphs, ecclesiastical vessels, and various religious items. The other museum displays an exhibition of folk culture, including items relevant to fishing, agriculture and shepherding. The Monastery of Archangel Michael also hosts a library with Byzantine manuscripts of religious, historical and philosophical content.

Some books date from the 16th and the 18th century. Furthermore, a gallery includes paintings of the monastery and its surrounding landscape. The Monastery of Archangel Michael in Panormitis village celebrates on November 8th and a religious festival is held every year with a lot of pilgrims coming to the island.

Found a great wood fired bakery, bought a bunch of treats and back to SK for tea with sv Dusk.

Met a Bavarian couple on Sv Opua, invited them over for happy hour.

Sailing Symi to Tilos

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Greece
October 13, 2023
25°

Panormitis, Symi to Tilos - 24.7nm

Tried hard to sail but it was fruitless as there was no wind.

Arrived at Tilos and anchored in front of the beach alon with Sv Dusk. There are hardly any boats here. Unfortunatley we had a port head issue that needed immediate attention. Fortunatley, our captain can pretty much fix anything and had it back into working condition in no time.

Amazingly, ancient Tilos is best known for its population of midget elephants. Full size elephants are thought to have found their way here 6 million years ago when the island was still attached to Asia Minor. When cut off by the rising waters of the Mediterranean, the elephants were left with no natural predators and a diminished food supply, and shrank in size. They became extinct around 4000 BC. A large cash of their bones was discovered in 1974 in the Harkadio Cave.

Livadia

Livadia is a photogenic jumble of whitewashed houses huddled around the north end of Adios Stefanos Bay. Little happens here -- a cat yawns, a fisherman falls asleep over his glass of ouzo... and that's precisely its charm tranquility.

Mikro Horio

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Car Tour Day! Stop 1. Mikro Horio

We had breakfast at the bakery in the waterfront (not very good). Then found a car to rent for the day.

This was our first stop- Mikro Horio - the old abandoned capital of Tilos. First settled by the Knights of St John in the 15th century and the 220 houses were inhabited continuously until 1940 when many of the residents left the village and moved to Livadia, at the eastern coast, taking with them the doors, the windows and the roofs of their old houses!

Elephant Paleontological Exhibition

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Road Trip - Stop #2

Once upon a time on Tílos, an island belonging to the Dodecanese, there used to live… elephants! A species of pygmy elephants survived on the island until about 3500 BC and are actually considered to be the last elephants that have ever lived in Europe!

It is truly amazing, yet true: if you could set foot on the island 50.000 years ago, you would see them approaching the island from the east, as at that time Tilos used to be part of Asia Minor, from which it was separated only 12.000 years ago.

The elephants were too many to fit on an island as small as Tilos; in order to survive they had to adjust to new conditions of living “transforming themselves” into dwarfs with a height ranging from 120-150 cm.

Due to the volcanic eruptions on Santorini and Nisyros everything, Tilos, just like all the other islands, ended up covered in volcanic lava.

The excavations at Charkadio cave, located about 2 km to the south of the village of Megalo Chorio, have brought to light skeletal remains of forty dwarf elephant as well as fossils of animals, including turtles and deer. Scientists believe that those dwarf elephants lived on the island 45,000 years ago and that they disappeared about 4,000 years ago.

Megalo Horio

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Greece
October 14, 2023
24°

Road Trip Stop #3

This beautiful town has kept intact its traditional character and layout. The village is small with a few modern amenities. It has a population of 250 inhabitants who are involved in farming and agriculture. Stone houses are built on the slopes of Agios Stefanos hill, under the ancient town and the Medieval Castle that rise over the settlement.

The Medieval Castle was built in the 15th century by the Knights of Saint John. Its location offered a view to the port of Eristos and Agios Antonios as well as the neighbouring island of Nisyros. Today, most of its ruins can be seen at the top and remains of the church of Saint Taxiarches. At the centre of Megalo Chorio you will find the churches of Agia Triada and Panagia Theotokissa.

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