August 2023

Sailing from Greece to Turkey

August 1 - August 12, 2023-Greece

August 13. 2023 - Left Greece for Turkey

Alimos Marina

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Greece
August 1, 2023
31°

Today we are waiting for the generator mechanic to come back as they think they know what is wrong with the generator.

Alimos Marina

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Greece
August 2, 2023
31°

Chris is installing the engine room fans, but it is extremely hot and humid. I hope he doesn't get heat stroke!

Just as he wrapped up the install, Mike arrived from Ottawa for a visit, perfect timing. With temperatures still soaring, we headed next door to Kalamaki Beach for a refreshing swim and a much-needed break from the heat.

Municipality of Lavreotiki

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Greece
August 3, 2023
35°

Alimos Marina to Cape Sounion -23.58nm

We woke the next morning to large paw prints along the top of the boat, Chris tried to convince me it was a rat, but I’m still pretty sure it was a very determined (and slightly clumsy) bird.

We left Alimos Marina and sailed down to Cape Sounion, dropping anchor in about 40 feet with an incredible view of the Temple of Poseidon towering above us. After settling in, we hiked up to the top where the panoramic views over the harbour were absolutely worth the climb, and even more magical once everything lit up at night.

Dinner was at a relaxed beachside taverna, the perfect end to a hot day. We had plenty of entertainment too, watching waves of charter boats motor up and down the shoreline searching for a place to land without getting their feet wet, somehow weaving through swimmers without disaster, which honestly felt like a small miracle.

Kythnos

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Greece
August 4, 2023
33°

Cape Sounion to Loutra Kythnos - 25.8 nm

We sailed from Cape Sounion to Loutra, Kythnos, enjoying an easy passage and even trying our luck at fishing, unfortunately, the fish weren’t interested.

Along the way we spotted something we’d never seen before: a person casually swimming alongside a moving sailboat. Mike also got his first taste of the infamous Greek high-speed Sea Jet ferries and the massive wake they throw behind them, definitely a memorable experience we don't want to have too oftern. We arrived without issue, anchoring and going stern-to the rocks in a truly lovely setting.

After settling in, we dinghied into the small marina and headed into town where we rented a car for the afternoon and evening.

The terraces scattered across Kythnos’ hillsides were striking, traditional dry-stone walls carving the land into stepped levels once used for farming, now giving the island a rugged, textured look and offering sweeping sea views at every turn.

We drove to Dryopida, a charming inland village with narrow winding alleys, whitewashed homes, colourful shutters, and quiet little squares where locals gathered, a slower, more traditional side of the island where stopping for gelato felt perfectly on pace.

Our last stop of the day was Katafiki Cave, a fascinating underground labyrinth carved into the limestone of Kythnos. The caves are made up of a series of chambers and tunnels, some open and airy, others narrow and mysterious, with stalactites and stalagmites creating natural sculptures along the walls and ceilings. Walking through the cave system feels like stepping into another world, cool and quiet, a striking contrast to the bright sun outside. The caves also have a rich history: in the past, they were used as hideouts, storage, and even for worship, adding an intriguing human element to the natural formations. We were lucky to get a free guided tour, which highlighted both the geological wonders and the historical stories, making it a magical way to end a full day exploring Kythnos.

From there we made our way back toward Loutra, known for its relaxed waterfront vibe and natural hot springs. The small harbour is lined with tavernas and cafés right along the water, it was a perfect spot to stop for dinner.

Tinos

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Greece
August 5, 2023
34°

Loutra, Kythnos to Tinos - 35.9nm

We had originally planned to sail to Syros (Ermoupolis), but made a last-minute decision to head for Tinos instead which, in hindsight, turned out to be a very bad idea.

As we passed Syros, we smelled burning plastic. We couldn’t figure out where it was coming from and assumed it was something onshore. About 30 minutes later, I noticed smoke, one of our starboard solar panels had caught fire. Chris and Mike immediately went below, removed the ceiling panels, and disconnected the wiring before it could spread any further.

Our plan was to anchor inside the breakwall at Tinos, but on arrival authorities told us anchoring was no longer allowed and directed us to the quay instead. We were placed in front a set of slippery stairs rather than along the wall, which made getting on and off the boat extremely challenging.

Tinos itself is a rugged Cycladic island known for its strong winds and deep religious traditions. The main town rises up from the busy ferry port with whitewashed buildings, marble streets, and a steady flow of pilgrims and visitors. Towering above the harbour is the Church of Panagia Evangelistria, one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Greece. A long red carpet stretches from the waterfront all the way up to the church entrance, and throughout the year, especially during religious festivals, devoted pilgrims can be seen making the journey on their hands and knees as an act of faith. We spent the afternoon walking around town, grabbing drinks, and visiting the church, taking in both the lively port atmosphere and the quiet reverence inside.

As predicted, the winds picked up overnight, and from exactly the wrong direction. We were pummeled by waves and at times were dangerously close to hitting the stairs. When we tried to move forward, our bridle snapped. Chris quickly engineered a much stronger system, but none of us slept. We’d been awake since 3:30 a.m., and even when we wanted to leave, the waves outside the breakwall were too big to attempt a safe departure.

Chios

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Greece
August 6, 2023
33°

Tinos, Greece to Chios Port - 75.8nm

Mike had been hoping to get off the boat, with our 90-day Schengen clock running out, we needed to keep moving. His options were either sailing all the way to Chios with us, about 76 nm or catching a ferry from here to Mykonos and onward. Getting off looked nearly impossible with the boat surging and the stairs dangerously slippery, but he timed it perfectly, jumped ashore, we tossed him his bag, and he helped untie the lines as we prepared to leave. I didn't even say bye to him! lol Later we realized just how rough the night had been, one of our aft cleats had actually broken during the chaos. Without question, it was one of the toughest nights we’ve had. Never will we back into a place without a wall again. He took a few pics of us as we sailed away. Poor Mike! What a way to end his trip on Stray Kitty!

We finally got out of the super sketchy spot on Tinos, the harbour entrance was terrifying, with huge, confused waves. We had to motor straight into them just to get the main sail up, but once the sails were set and we turned toward our course, things gradually calmed the further we moved away from Tinos. We had to keep moving at speed to make good progress during daylight, as leaving earlier wasn’t possible with the weather still rough at 6:00 a.m.

By 10:55, the wind was dying, but then Chris noticed the top batten of the mainsail coming loose. We tried to turn the boat, but it was too late, it fell out, cutting a hole in the trampoline as it landed in the water. Goodbye, old friend! Captain Chris got his sewing kit and sewed the trampoline together as best he could.

By 12:30 we had the spinnaker up, and we saw dolphins which always makes everything better and by 17:00 we were sailing along under a parasailer, making 10–11 knots.

We tried to stop at a small fishing port along the way, but we were too large even to anchor outside, so we pressed on toward Chios.

We arrived at 22:15 and stern-tied to the town quay. Coming in at night wasn’t a problem, there were plenty of lights and lots of space. We initially tried to stern-tie between two superyachts, but a sign showed the spot was reserved, so we repositioned without issue.

The town was lively, with busy streets, bars, and restaurants. We plugged in the power, though unfortunately ran out in the middle of the night, a reminder that even after a long day of sailing, life aboard always keeps you on your toes.

Chios

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Greece
August 7, 2023

Chios Port to the Chios Marina (abandoned) - 1.5nm

We got off the boat and headed straight to the Port Police and Customs to check out of Greece, but hit an unexpected snag: our transit log. Even though we had checked into Zea Marina in Athens, we never officially checked out, and they needed that stamp in that column. This turned into a bit of a nightmare. We ended up in the office for about two hours, watching the officer run up and down the stairs at least 20 times, glaring every time we failed to have the correct paperwork.

Finally, we were told we needed to courier the transit log back to Athens, have Zea Marina stamp it, and then courier it back to Chios. In theory, this was simple, in practice, it meant 4–6 days with no overnight courier options. We did what they told us and went to Easy Mail, the girl there spoke a bit of English and we tried to make her understand the gravity of the situation. We asked her to write a note in Greek explaining that the log should be returned to Chios, though we didn’t pay for the return courier, so fingers crossed that part works. However we are lucky as this happened to another cruiser we know and they made them take a plane to get their paperwork signed in person!

After that headache, we walked to the abandoned Chios Marina to see if there was any room, especially with a Meltemi forecasted and the main port less protected. There seemed to be space, so we decided to move the boat there. When we arrived, our preferred spot had already been taken by an Outremer, but luckily there were two open spots along the wall. One had tires with “Captain Chris” written on them, and the other was at the very end on a sharp 90-degree angle. We squeezed into the end spot, right beside the parking lot, and it feels very secure. Finally, we are ready to face our first Meltemi with some peace of mind.

Chios

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Greece
August 8, 2023
33°

We got our e-bikes out and spent the day exploring Chios, pedaling along the rugged northern coast with its mix of rocky cliffs, hidden coves, and sandy beaches. The views of the Aegean Sea were spectacular, with turquoise waters sparkling against the whitewashed villages and old windmills perched on hilltops. We biked all the way up to a charming café called Eos, perfect for a mid-ride coffee, and stopped at Paralia Daskalopetra, a quiet beach tucked into the coastline, where we could take in the sun and the waves before continuing our ride.

On Navily, I was contacted by another boat, SV Dusk, asking if there was any space at the abadoned marina, as everyone was trying to find shelter from the Meltemi. I sent back a few pictures of our spot that morning, and when they came by to thank us, we started chatting. Before long, they invited us to tour the island with them tomorrow, which was perfect since it was a Greek holiday and rental cars were almost impossible to find and they had already booked one.

Chios

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Greece
August 9, 2023

We spent the day touring Chios by car with Tracy and Steve from SV Dusk, exploring some of the island’s most charming and historic spots.

Our first stop was Pyrgi, a striking village dating back to the 10th century, famous for its intricate black-and-white geometric designs painted on the walls of the houses, a style unique to Chios.

Next, we drove to Olympoi, a medieval village tucked into the hills, with narrow cobbled streets, stone houses, and a timeless atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back centuries.

From there we visited Mesta, one of Chios’ fortified medieval “mastic villages.” These villages were originally built with defensive walls and narrow streets to protect against pirate attacks, but what makes them truly unique is their connection to mastic, a resin harvested from local trees. Mastic has been a valuable crop for centuries and is used in traditional sweets, pastries, chewing gum, liqueurs, and even cosmetics, giving the villages both a rich history and a modern culinary legacy. We bought some mastic chewing gum to try it out. Walking through Mesta, you can see the stone towers and old houses while imagining the centuries of mastic harvesting that sustained the community.

We stopped at Lidl, taking advantage of having a car to stock up on groceries for the boat where we saw a very low flying plane coming into the airport. Wasn't expecting that in the Lidl parking lot!

To end the day, we enjoyed an incredible dinner at Fish Market Taverna, right by the fishing boats in the harbour. Fresh seafood, lively atmosphere, and a perfect view of the water made it a fantastic way to wrap up our Chios adventure.

Chios

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Greece
August 10, 2023

Day 2 of our Chios auto adventure took us further into the island’s rich history and stunning landscapes.

Our first stop was Nea Moni of Chios, a UNESCO World Heritage site and 11th-century monastery famous for its stunning Byzantine mosaics and serene surroundings. Walking through the monastery’s cloisters and church, you can feel the centuries of devotion and artistry that make it one of the island’s true treasures. The mosaics are particularly remarkable, depicting religious scenes with incredible detail and vibrant color that have survived nearly a thousand years. Beyond the art, the monastery’s stone courtyards, arches, and peaceful gardens create a sense of calm that contrasts beautifully with the rugged landscape surrounding it. It’s easy to spend hours exploring and imagining the monks who lived and worked here over the centuries.

Next, we visited Avgonyma, a small mountain village perched on the slopes with panoramic views of the northern coast. The village itself is quiet and traditional, with stone houses and narrow alleys, a perfect snapshot of authentic island life.

From there we drove to Anavatos, the dramatic medieval fortress village built high on a cliff. The ruins are hauntingly beautiful, with stone houses and narrow streets clinging to the rock, offering breathtaking views and a real sense of Chios’ turbulent past defending against pirate attacks.

Our final stop of the day was Volissos, a small village on the northwest coast known as the birthplace of Homer. The village has a charming waterfront, a castle perched above, and a relaxed vibe that makes it the perfect place to reflect on the myths and stories that shaped Greece.

Thank you to Steve for doing allthe driving for the past 2 days!

Chios

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Greece
August 11, 2023
30°

We biked downtown to check on the courier. We were told that unfortunately our transit log was sent to Rhodes by mistake instead of back to Chios!! And it would take another 5 days to arrive which would make us over our Schegen days.

We saw Tracy and Steve so met them for lunch at The Pastards. During lunch, we received a call from the guy who works at the courier office to say he walked over to the harbour master to tell them that our paperwork got lost so they told us we could come by and they would check us out!!! Incredible!

Now we are all checked out of Greece. They wanted us to call on the VHF when leaving but we don't plan to actually leave today as the weather still isn't right.

We walked along the waterfornt and also made a stop at Chios Castle, a massive medieval fortress that dominates the town and its harbour. Built and expanded by the Genoese in the 14th century, the castle walls and towers were designed to protect the island from pirate attacks and invaders. Walking along the ramparts, you can see the historic streets, old churches, and Venetian-era buildings still preserved inside the walls. The view from the castle is spectacular, the harbour, town, and surrounding coastline stretch out below, giving a real sense of how strategically important Chios was in the Aegean. Even today, the castle feels alive with history, and it’s easy to imagine the bustling life that took place within its fortified walls centuries ago.

Unfortunately we had to buy another month of data, even though will be here for just a few more days.

August 12, 2023

Just biked to My Market, put bikes away, hoping no one from the customs office will see us. Went to Tracey and Steve’s boat for happy hour and met another boat. Australian’s who come to Greece every year for the past 13 years.

The boat is so covered in dust and dirt from the parking lot I have never seen it so bad. The dirt is everywhere in every nook and cranny. If we had gotten a spot along the wall it would have been better.

Cesme

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Turkey
August 13, 2023
32°

Chios Marina, Greece to Cesme, Turkey - 8.8nm

We left Chios Marina in Greece, waving good-bye to Tracy and Steve on SV Dusk. It was a quick blustery sail over to Cesme Marina for check-in to Turkey.

We needed to use an agent for check-in. They said you could use the dock for free for 4 hours. We asked for water so we could clean all the dust off from the Chios Marina. We started to clean the boat but then the marinara came over and said the owner of the slip was coming back so we had to move. So we put everything away and they helped us back into a different slip. However, they did let us use the water which was very nice. By 5:00 p.m. the agent was done our paperwork and were on our way to our first anchorage.

We then motored north to Dalyan Koyu anchorage, as we were considering hiring a car from here. The anchorage is well protected but was super packed with locals on vacation. And it was not close to anything.

Dalyan Koyu (HaceHepe Bay)

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Turkey
August 14, 2023
32°

We went into Cesme today. But first we had to find a spot to park the dingy. After touring the bay, we found a spot by a resort and Ada's Mini Mart. It was a 4 km walk into town from here.

First order of business was finding a sim card and we just happened to see a Turk Cell store and popped in. The cost for 2 sim cards with 20 gb of data and 200 voice was $100.00 CDN, I was surprised at the cost. However what surprised me even more was we had to show our passports and the TurkCell system is integrated with the immigration system.

We stopped at a cafe/bakery for our first taste of Turkish food and Turkish tea. cookies, salad and a burek (similar to what we used to eat in Montenegro).

Walking the back roads of Cesme was not so nice. We finally made it Cesme Castle. The prominent castle on the waterfront was built by the Genoese in the 14th century and captured by Beyazit I in 1400. It protected the harbour and the Turkish fleet until they were attacked by three Russian squadrons in 1770, when the Turkish fleet was destroyed and Turkish sea power broken to allow the Russians access to the Mediterranean from the Black Sea.

The walk along the waterfront is nice. Lots of boat trip tours to sign up for! Finally in our quest to try more Turkish food, we stopped for a plate. I'm not sure what it is called yet, but it is donair meat chopped up on pieces of flat bread with bbq sauce poured on top and a dollop of yogurt on the side.(wasn't a fan, tbh)

We then walked all the way back to the dingy. When we reached the dingy it was being bashed up against the boat ramp. Luckily, we came back when we did. Fortunately, once we got around to the bay, we were very protected and there were no more waves.

We decided we didn’t want to leave the boat and dingy here to rent a car to Ephesus and we will leave this anchorage in the morning.

HaceHepe Bay to Cilga Koyu

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Turkey
August 15, 2023
32°

HaceHepe Bay to Cilga Koyu - 31.9nm

We decided we were not comfortable leaving the boat and dingy here for a prolonged period while we rented a car so we departed the anchorage at 0700 and sailed south to Cilga Koyu.

This anchorage has no road access and no amenities. It was very quiet. We were the first and only boat for a few hours, then lo and behold, we see 2 catamarans coming into the bay and one of them is Canadian! on board sv Yemaya2.

As they were motoring by to go into shore we waved them over and they came aboard for happy hour.

One good thing about this anchorage? There was no internet! I started reading a book and it was so dark out at night you could see the milky way and a billion stars.

Cilga Koyu to Sigacik Koyu (Cemetery Bay/Teos Bay)

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Turkey
August 16, 2023
34°

Cilga Koyu to Sigacik Koyu (Cemetery Bay/Teos Bay) - 16.1nm

Departed the anchorage at 0930 for Cemetery Bay which was a suggestion from Steve and Tracy on svDusk.

There was a lot of boats on mooring balls, some of which were tied together in 3's, that looked like they had been there a really long time. We finally found a spot to anchor in 25 ft.

We took the dingy over to Teos Marina to try and get a blue card. In Turkey, your boat must have holding tanks and you are required to pump them out at a certified marina every 2 weeks. Teos Marina registered us, however they told us that they usually only do it for their registerrd guests. This doesn't really make sense to me because staying in a Turkish marina costs between $400-$600 a night and you have to get a blue card so are they going to force you to go into a marina to get a blue card?

Sigacik became the member of ''Cittaslow''. A concept of living in quite and slow cities instead of the noises of big cities. We walked around the cute old town, found a snack then met up with Ben and Lynnae on Sv Yemaya2 to walk over to the Teos Ancient City.

Teos Ancient City

Ancient City of Teos was founded as an Ionian civilization in 1000 BC. It is believed that Athames, the son of Dionysus, was the founder of the city. Teos was ruled first by Lydia and then Persia. It gained its independence with Ionians and had an important role in architecture and trade.

Teos was one of the most important of 12 cities in Antique Ionia. There are Hellenistic and Roman period monuments in the ancient city of Teos.

The Temple of Dionysus, which is the most significant monument at Teos. Teos Ancient City consists of the Hellenistic city walls, antique theatre, acropolis, agora, odeon, bouleuterion, cistern, gymnasium, the remains of the ancient southern port, a small church built on the pier and the giant olive tree

To end the day we found a really good restaurant for a Turkish dinner and about 10 bottles of water after the long hot walk through the ruins.

Sigacik Koyu to Kusadasi

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Turkey
August 17, 2023
33°

Sigacik Koyu (Cemetery Bay/Teos Bay) to Setur Kusadasi Marina- 34.9nm

We were going to anchor in front of the break wall but the wind was coming from the wrong direction and there was a swell coming into the anchorage so we decided to go into the Setur Kusadasi Marina.

That was an eye opener👀

It cost $350.00 for one night. We are on a dock with the commercial diving boats, the Marina is under construction, there is no pool. They charged us for a key fob to purchase the electricity and water. What are we supposed to do with that after we leave?

We went out in the evening for a walk along that waterfront with SV Yamaya2 along with a wonderful waterfront dinner, but when we got back the electricity had turned off. It did not work. We tried to contact the Marina but they close at 7:30 pm. So we had to sleep at the marina with no air conditioning and not being able to charge our batteries. All that being said, they have excellent marinaras who helped us into our slip very efficiently.

Ephesus Ancient City

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Turkey
August 18, 2023
30°

We woke up early, went to speak to the Marina about getting our electricity working, they promised us they would have someone look at it today and get it working.

We then went to the rental car place and after driving around for a few kilometers, we got the car, proceeded to drive to Ephesus, a short 15 km away.

Ephesus , Ancient Ionian Greek city; its ruins lie near the modern village of Selƈuk in western Turkey. It was situated south of the Cayster River and was the site of the Temple of Artemis.

Traditionally founded by the Carians, it was one of the 12 Ionian Cities and was involved in the Persian and Peloponnesian wars. It was taken by Alexander the Great c. 333 BC and prospered throughout the Hellenistic period. It passed to Rome in 133 BC and under the emperor Augustus became the capital of the Roman province of Asia. It was an early seat of Christianity, which was visited by St. Paul; the Letter of Paul to the Ephesians was directed to the church there. The Goths destroyed the city and temple in AD 262; neither ever recovered. There are extensively excavated ruins at the modern site.

After spending a few hours taking it all on , on the sweltering heat, we found a very cute restaurant to stop at for lunch then continued on to the mountain town of Sirince.

Şirince

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Turkey
August 18, 2023
30°

After our excellent lunch stop, we continued along the mountain road a short ways until we reached Sirince.

Sirince is perhaps the perfect synthesis of a traditional Turkish village and traditional Greek village. In fact, the town, whose name actually means "cute" in Turkish, used to be called "Çirkince," meaning "ugly." This was an ironic take on the beauty of the village and also used to ward off others. As people wised up to how spectacular the village's location and architecture really was, they changed the name to Şirince in 1926.

The architecture is truly special and a few houses have been opened to the public to give the public the opportunity to admire it up close and to get a sense of the architectural history of the village. Any new building is required to align with the aesthetic of the village, which is under preservation. Its location on a hill and its fertile fields have made it a haven for vineyards, olive orchards (and the local olive oil is to die for!), and amazing peaches, figs, apples, walnuts and more.

The lush greenery of the natural setting of Şirince is complemented beautifully by the two-storey architecture of the buildings in the village. From afar the village looks like a painting, and its homes are as enchanting from afar as they are from up close. The homes are connected through windy, cobbled streets that are narrow and make you feel like you're traveling back in time to world before cars and modern industry.

We did some fruit wine tasting and bought some delicious mulberry puree.

Selcuk - Rest of our land tour

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Turkey
August 18, 2023
34°

After Sirince, we headed back to Selcuk to finish our tour.

Temple of Artemis

Temple of Artemis, also called Artemesium, temple at Ephesus, that was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The great temple was built by Croesus, king of Lydia, about 550 BCE and was rebuilt after being burned by a madman named Herostratus in 356 BCE. The Artemesium was famous not only for its great size, over 350 by 180 feet (about 110 by 55 metres), but also for the magnificent works of art that adorned it. The temple was destroyed by invading Goths in 262 CE and was never rebuilt. Little remains of the temple.

Copies survive of the famous statue of Artemis, an un-Greek representation of a mummylike goddess, standing stiffly straight with her hands extended outward. The original statue was made of gold, ebony, silver, and black stone. The legs and hips were covered by a garment decorated with reliefs of animals and bees, and the top of the body was festooned with many breasts; her head was adorned with a high-pillared headdress.

Basilica of St. John and Ayasuluk Fortress

Saint John spent the last years of his life in Ephesus. He died around 100 AD and was buried on Ayasoluk Hill. In the 6th century AD, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of a huge basilica on this site. The construction of the temple was completed in 565. The builders used the elements from the nearby Temple of Artemis - one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The Basilica of Saint John soon became an important goal for pilgrims from all over the Christian world. It was believed that the dust from the tomb of the Apostle possessed healing properties.

Ephesus Archaeological Museum

Our last stop!!.

It houses finds from the nearby Ephesus excavation site. Its best-known exhibit is the ancient statue of the Greek Goddess Artemis retrieved from the temple of the goddess in Ephesus, Priapos statue, the head of Socrates, the Egyptian priest, the Eros with rabbit and the oldest piece – a stamp- found in Cukurici Mound- dating back to 6200 BC.

To finish my story about the Kusadasi Setur Marina, when we arrived back from our very long day of touring around, we got back to the boat and guess what? Our electricity was still not working and the marina office was now closed. We went to security to see if they left our fob but they didn't know, thankfully he loaned us his fob so we could at least have a shower. When we went to return his fob, he said he found ours, he did have it after all! However, when we tried it, it would not turn on the electricity. So frustrating!!!!!!

We went out for dinner and had the worst experience ever! A long day!

Kuşadası

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Turkey
August 19, 2023
34°

We ended up speaking to the manager of the Kusadasi Marina, she gave us a free night stay which is a big deal at over $200 Euros a night! And finally they took us seriously and got our electricity working. We ended up wasting almost all day waiting for the electrician while he fixed the box then trying to get fuel. As the marina is still under construction there is no fuel dock but there is a fuel truck but its on the other side of the marina so we had to move there. Once we backed into the dock, we found out everyone is on lunch, so we had to wait an hour, then we had to go back to our slip. Luckily, that marinara's are very good and they are competent and helping dock the boats, which I really appreciated!

In the evening, we went to sv Yamaya2 for dinner and had a tour of their boat, a Lagoon 42. A lovely boat and a great evening.

Kusadasi to Didim

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Turkey
August 20, 2023
32°

We had to wait to leave as the super yacht Mayan Queen was leaving, it's so big, it was blocking us in. It's truly mind-blowing how many super yachts there are in the Med, especially in Turkey. It's fun to look them up and see who owns then and the price to charter for on week. Who has this kind of money? Here is an example:

Mayan Queen: The Luxurious Yacht with an Impressive Legacy. The Mayan Queen yacht is an impressive 92-meter motor yacht built by renowned shipbuilders Blohm & Voss. The yacht’s VIP suite features an innovative ‘invisible’ balcony that slides out from the superstructure, preserving the yacht’s sleek lines. Previously owned by the late Mexican billionaire Alberto Bailleres, the yacht is now owned by his family.

Valued at $175 million, the luxury yacht is an embodiment of luxury on the high seas. The unfortunate passing of Sinead McNamara, a crew member aboard the yacht, is a tragic chapter in the yacht’s history.

We had a great sail to Didim with sv Yamaya2. Along the way we passed a lot of fish farms which was interesting. Not sure I'd be too interested in eating seabream and seabass anymore.

We anchored in the extremely busy bay - jet skis, boats towing tubes, dingys flying by every 2 seconds and went to check out shore. The Didim waterfront is bustling and full of life, with a row of cafés, restaurants, and bars right along the water’s edge. Large pirate-style excursion boats are moored in the bay, offering day trips for tourists, while smaller fishing and leisure boats bob in the harbor. The promenade is lively, with people strolling, enjoying drinks, or just watching the activity on the water, making it a vibrant hub of the town.

Didam

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Turkey
August 21, 2023
33°

A very tiring anchorage with constant jet skis, power boats, super yacht dingys, boats towing people, etc. circling us non stop all day long.

Got off the boat for a while and went for a walk and then out for dinner.

Didim - Bike tour to Didyma

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Turkey
August 22, 2023
33°

Happy 25th Anniversary to us!

We decided to take the bikes into shore and bike to Didyma.

Unfortunately, when I got to shore I realized I had a flat tire. Luckily, we found a bike shop in town so Chris carried the bike and I walked his bike to the bike shop about 1.5km away. Luckily he had two tubes left of our size and he was able to fix my tire and do a bit of a tune-up on the bikes. Then we were on our way.

We stopped first for a Turkish breakfast at David's People Restaurant, our first one of this trip. Unfortunately, it was a touch disappointing.

Didyma is 6 km from the waterfront so not a long bike ride.

In the ancient times, Didyma was famous as the place where a colossal Temple of Apollo stood, and the oracle revealed the future.

In its heyday, Didyma was not a city, but a place of worship, connected with Miletus by the so-called Sacred Way. This road was used by the pilgrims who arrived at Didyma, seeking answers to nagging questions.

The history of settlement in Didim region dates back to Neolithic times. The excellent location attracted settlers from Crete, and then, in the 16th century BCE, from Mycenae. The subsequent history of the settlement reflects the typical kaleidoscope of civilizations dominating in the western part of Asia Minor, i.e. the Lydians, the Persians, the Seleucids, the Attalids, the Romans, and the Byzantines.

In the ancient period, Didyma never had the distinction of being the biggest or the most important religious center. The Temple of Apollo located there was the second largest after the Artemision of Ephesus, and its oracle — the second most influential after Delphi. However, nowadays the visit to Didyma is a much more exciting experience than looking at a single column that remained from the Artemision of Ephesus.

Seeing as how Didyma was intrinsically connectd to Miletus and it was only about 11:00 am, we made the decision to go visit it, a 25 km bike ride one way!

Bike ride from Didyma to Miletus Ancient City

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Turkey
August 22, 2023
33°

The bike ride was not too bad, the roads have shoulders but they are very gravelly so it was a bumpy ride and so freakin hot!!!

We arrived at the Miletus Museum to buy our tickets and thankfully it had a bit of a/c on.

We were surprised at how big the site was, and how few other tourists were here, one could spend all day wondering around.

Founded by the Greeks on the coast of Asia Minor, Miletus will be remembered in the annals of history as the birthplace of mathematician Thales and two famous philosophers, Anaxagoras and Anaximander. Miletus was also one of the oldest and most important Greek cities of Ionia, boasting not one, but four harbors.

It is not currently possible to determine how long Miletus area has been inhabited by humans because any potential traces of the first settlement are located under thick layers of sediment deposits of the river Meander. The oldest traces, accessible to archaeologists, come from the Neolithic period (3500-3000 BCE) when these areas were located on several islands, located off the coast, at the mouth of Meander.

We didn't walk the whole place because we knew we had to bike back another 25 km in the heat, but it is definitely worth a visit.

Once we got back to the boat, I wasn't leaving again, so I made us a nice anniversary dinner.